“Camp” setup at our San Pedro Sula hotel

Once Kaia had outgrown a crib and pack-n-play, when traveling, we’d ask the hotels for a roll-away bed for her. All hotels accommodate this, of course, but occasionally, you get a special surprise at some properties.

We stayed at an Aloft hotel in San Pedro Sula. Aloft is known for their Camp Aloft, which encourages kids ages 2-12 to have fun by providing them with their own unique Aloft experience. They call it a “bed in a bag with special treats!” The last time Kaia had something close to a tent experience was when we had the Lovevery “fort” setup, but she quickly outgrew that because that was more for babies and younger toddlers. She’s also hidden in the tent at Chris’s aunt and uncle’s place in Melbourne, which she loved. So when we arrived at our hotel room on Saturday late afternoon, she squealed with delight when she saw her little tent bed. After taking off her shoes, she immediately ran over to the bed to hide in her tent. She was obsessed with the little windows where you could play peekaboo. I love that she still loves peekaboo… and I still wonder how long this peekaboo love will last?!

The hotel manager also tried to spoil her by giving her a full-sized bag of M&Ms and a bag of Skittles… which Chris immediately confiscated. I think by the end of the trip, he may have let her have two M&Ms and two Skittles max. I love these experiences that Kaia gets when traveling, and I love seeing people treat children well. I hope she can remember at least some of these experiences when she’s older, as at the age of 4, this is the earliest time of my life that I have very vivid memories of. And even when she isn’t able to remember, we will have lots of photos and videos to document and share with her so she can relish in the fact that she was so spoiled in these travel moments.

My very first cacao fruit — in Honduras

Few things excite me more than discovering new food, and especially new fruit, while traveling. I love that different countries and and climates have different fruits that can only be grown in certain areas. Some people are upset by this, as they believe that globalization should enable anyone anywhere to get whatever produce they want anytime they want, but I think that’s just unrealistic given how delicate and sensitive some of these fruit and vegetables are. Indian mangoes are a great example: while many are being exported to the U.S. from India, it’s a huge gamble which of them are actually intact once they make it to stateside. Many would have rotted in transit, and they all need to be sprayed to prevent infestation. The one time we bought a box of Indian mangoes in New Jersey and brought it back home, I still remember one of them never ripened, while a couple others were rotted and black. There’s a no-returns policy on these, so it’s fully at your own risk!

While in Guatemala on our day trips to Antigua and Lake Atitlan, I talked to our driver about cacao fruit, and he had mentioned that locals did buy it to eat the fruit around the cacao beans. We saw it at a few fruit stands there, but the road conditions and traffic were unpleasant, and so I never asked our driver to stop. In Ecuador in July, our driver who took us to Quilotoa Crater Lake told us that one of his sons absolutely loves cacao fruit and that it’s one of his favorites, so he gets it just for him. My interest was piqued; I needed to try cacao fruit at least once!

So when we passed several street-side vendors selling the fruit, I asked Javier our driver if that was in fact cacao, and he confirmed it was. So we stopped by a fruit vendor, and from there, I was given a cacao and chose the ripest possible mango (out of likely over 20 that were ROCK hard!) given we had less than 24 hours left here. I just spent over $2 USD on local Honduran fruit, and I was extremely, extremely thrilled.

Back at the hotel last night, I asked if someone from the kitchen could help me cut the cacao in half. I got it back and scooped out all the cacao seeds (beans), which were covered in a thin, custardy white layer — this is the fruit! Chris and I shared the fruit since Kaia seemed extremely uninterested in it, and I didn’t feel like pushing her given it was a potential choking hazard. The flavor was sweet first, then a little tart, with a custardy texture and finish. Chris remarked that he wished there was more flesh to eat, which I agreed with. The more I thought about it, the more the flavor and texture reminded me of the cherimoyas we had while in Peru. Cherimoyas are a lot less work and far more flesh to eat, though! The act of sucking off the flesh from around the beans — this was definitely reminiscent of the mamoncilla fruit we ate while in Colombia and El Salvador. Those seeds were extremely large and round (super big choking hazard!), with a thin, bright pink flesh.

Fruit adventuring while traveling is one of the best things. Now I can finally say I’ve tried cacao the fruit!

A day spent exploring the surrounds of San Pedro Sula, Honduras

If you look at places to see and what to do in San Pedro Sula, you can tell almost right away that it was never a place built with tourism in mind. There’s virtually zero tourism infrastructure. People obviously live there. Many businesses are located and/or headquartered here, so people come for business travel. But when it comes to sightseeing, most of that is found outside of San Pedro Sula, at least an hour outside the city, where you forget “urban” even exists because of how green, jungle-like, and rugged the area outside of it is.

We didn’t want to rent a car or drive in mainland Honduras, so Chris tried for a while to find a driver who could take us on a day trip, but it was challenging. Some of the drivers he found and reached out to didn’t seem legitimate. Others were quoting such astronomically high costs that they would even be absurd if we got quoted those numbers back home in the U.S. Finally, and unexpectedly, we were able to enlist the hotel manager’s help ahead of time in finding us a safe, legitimate driver who charged a reasonable amount to be our driver for the day outside the city. We were warned he didn’t speak any English, but this was fine because we’d give him our desired itinerary ahead of time. And of course, there was always Google Translate (what a savior!).

We visited a number of interesting places today that made us forget about the city completely. Our first stop was at D&D Brewery and Restaurant in the Pena Blanca area. It’s this little brewery/restaurant/inn that you’d totally overlook when driving passed it because it’s so tucked away. It’s physically inside a rainforest close to Lago de Yojoa (Lake Yojoa). Given they are a craft brewery (that uses mountain spring water), we got a pineapple and raspberry beer along with a slice of very light and fluffy chocolate cake to appease Kaia. We also walked around the property, which really did feel like we were right in the center of a jungle. It was a really beautiful spot with friendly service despite the language barrier.

Our next stop was at Los Naranjos Eco-Archaeological Park, which contains pre-Columbian ruins of a major Lenca city dating back to 800 B.C. That is even older than Copan, the famous Maya ruins also in Honduras that is likely better known. Copan dates back to 400 A.D. There, we got to walk along a long wooden boardwalk that curved through these huge wetlands at the edge of Lake Yojoa. I loved all the unique bird songs we got to hear while walking through it — how beautiful it would be to be able to fall asleep to those nature sounds at night! I also appreciated how relatively covered we felt by the endless large trees from the UV rays (I am officially in my forties now, after all…).

Just past midday, we went down to Lake Yojoa and took a calm, relaxing boat tour of the lake and surrounds. This time, our driver Javier came with us, and he occasionally pointed out interesting things to us, like the famous Goblin’s Cave and the turtle shaped island in the middle of the lake. While on the boat, I was reminded of this time last year when we were in Lake Atitlan, Guatemala, for a day trip. And the mountains in the distance here and the faint mist over them reminded me of that time. There are so many beautiful bodies of water in the world to see and explore!

We passed so many street side fruit vendors that I had to take advantage of this. So I asked Javier if he could stop by one so I could check out some fruit. I ended up getting a local mango and my very first cacao fruit — all for 70 Lempiras; more on this tomorrow!

A typical lunch by the lake will include fried fish, fried fish, and fried fish, all caught from the lake, with a side of freshly fried plantains in the same oil. Chris managed to find us a teeny tiny little quaint spot overlooking the water called Comedor Mayra, where a very nice lady was able to communicate with us and get our order in. I asked if she had juice, and though she didn’t have any, she was eager to get it from a nearby fresh juice vendor once we told her what we’d be interested in. We ended up having a hibiscus and mango juice. The fish was delicious, as were the tostones and the juices. And I’m still in shock from how cheap the meal was: an entire whole fried fish with tostones with all the cabbage and pickled vegetable fixings, plus two large fresh juices for just 250 Lempiras — that’s not even $10 USD!

Our last stop for the day was at Cataratas Pulhapanzak (Pulhapanzak Falls), meaning “white river overflow in Mayan. “Pulha” as it is known is 43 meters/140-feet tall, located on Rio Lindo about an hour’s drive outside of San Pedro Sula. The area served as a pre-Hispanic center, likely overlapping with the Mayan civilization. Before the Spanish arrived here, the falls were deeply revered as a sacred, mystical site by the indigenous Lenca people. Now, it’s fully set up for tourism, with the option to do cave walks, behind-the-water splash adventures, river tubing, and even multi-course ziplining. There is a big “Pulha” sign for photos with the large waterfall in the background, complete with a large platform to which you can walk up to get the perfect photo opp. It felt like mostly locals and maybe domestic tourists when we went. A lot were getting into the water and swimming in calmer, shallower areas. The whole area felt like a big family-friendly outdoor hangout, and a very natural one at that! I do not recall seeing a single obviously foreign tourist there other than ourselves. The falls were beautiful, and the mist went much farther than it appears it would. We had a feeling that we probably came on a lower flow day because the actual fall itself was relatively small.

We packed a lot into today, with the day planning done by Chris and Claude/Gemini, and some occasional help and friendly pointers from our driver Javier. We ended the day with yesterday’s Power Chicken leftovers (a very popular fast food spot with HUGE portions all over Honduras that should be visited if you ever come!) and a good night’s sleep. And luckily by midday today, my right butt cheek stopped hurting and burning, so I hope I’m on the short road to recovery from these coral reef scrapes.

Seeing fish swim around us and snorkeling at West Bay Beach, Roatan

I occasionally get asked what I love most about motherhood/parenthood. And I will say that there are a lot of things I love about it very much (also a decent number of things I cannot stand, like dealing with temper tantrums and negotiating with a tiny person), but if I had to say just one thing, I would say that I absolutely love watching her experience new things for the first time and what her reaction is. It also helps keep me more in the moment because she completely and totally lives for the moment. Whether it was the first time she had something sweet and the look of pure surprise and joy on her face, to the giggle-induced glee she got when she first stomped in puddles, I just love seeing all of her firsts and her reactions. I love watching her delight in discovering more and more about life — at least, the beauty of life. The hard and ugly stuff… well, we’ll inevitably eventually get there, won’t we?

We spent the morning at the beach just steps from the hotel, and I will say, with certainty, that this is likely my favorite beach of all time. I thought this was the case with the beaches in Boracay, but this tops that experience because here, I can actually swim not too far out from the beach and already see the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef! Where else can you go and be just a short swim away from the shore to see the barrier reef and endless colorful fishes of different shapes and sizes?!

When we stepped into the water together, Kaia immediately noticed that little fishies were swimming in the water with us. And she giggled and shrieked with so much delight that I could feel like my heart was overflowing. My little baby was so happy to see all these fishies swimming around her. And it made me so happy to see that she was happy and enjoying herself; it was a reminder of mudita, joy for someone else’s joy, once again. And then I felt this internal dilemma because I didn’t have my phone with me and wanted to capture the moment. But I still wanted to be in the moment. What to do?! So I let her splash and stare and ooh and ahh and giggle over the sergeant major fish and other silver fish swim around her and watched her revel in her joy. But after about ten minutes, I knew that the joy was going to eventually subside, as this would be her “new normal” at this beach, so I rushed to grab my phone and came back to capture just seconds of her fish-induced giggling. I could’ve listened to her giggling over the fishies swimming around her all day; I may even have that video on loop, just the audio, when we go back home.

Before this trip, I’d only ever been snorkeling two times: the very first time was in December 2014 in Cairns in the Great Barrier Reef, where we were on a boat to go out far enough to snorkel. The second time was just this last January in Cebu where we also had to go out on a island-hopping-tour boat, and we got to see the coral and endless beautiful fish in the Philippines. In Cairns, I had a “proper” snorkeling experience because all my snorkeling gear worked as intended. In the Philippines, the gear was jenky and I had to constantly adjust it because water kept flooding into my goggles. Here given we rented our gear from the hotel, everything was in perfect condition, so I didn’t have to worry about malfunctioning issues. This third time would be the first time we did snorkeling independent of a tour or boat. I love snorkeling; it’s likely one of the most fun and calming experiences ever. I’m obsessed with all the different colors that are out there in the ocean. It is a little intimidating for me because I never fully “graduated” from swimming classes and am not a strong swimmer, but thank goodness for life vests and good snorkeling equipment! The coral, fish, and water are all worth it! Unfortunately, most of the coral right off the shore is dead. And weirdly enough, some parts are so shallow (not even two feet?) and then it immediately gets really, really deep). But despite all of that, I lost count of the number of exotic, florescent fish we saw. Like in the Philippines, we saw different varieties of the florescent, rainbow colored parrotfish (stoplight parrotfish, princess parrotfish, and queen parrotfish), the sergeant majors at the shore and beyond, endless silver hued fish of different shapes and sizes, blue chromis, fairy basslets (these were so fun; bright florescent blue-purple on the front of their little bodies and florescent bright yellow on the back!), Spanish hogfish, and at least a dozen different types of angelfish and butterfly fish. I always got really, really excited whenever a school of fish would pass by. There were multiple schools of florescent dark blue and black angel-like fish swimming by me like I was just part of the furniture! I also saw a very interesting coral that was bright red and pink, and shaped like a perfect sofa cushion… and made sure to stay far away as possible from it to avoid any coral stings.

Another interesting thing happened today at the beach: Chris decided to get into sand castle making with us. He’s never done this before and has always left Kaia and me to this activity ourselves. Sand castle making, alongside searching for interesting seashells (unfortunately, there were ZERO shells on this beach), are also part of my favorite beach activities. With the borrowed shovels and buckets from the activity center, Chris was taking this job very, very seriously. He not only ensured that the castle had a moat (I always say that if there’s no moat, then it’s not a real sand castle!), but he created two watch towers and a river that ran into the moat from the shallow waves. Kaia relished Chris building the castle and eventually just delegated most of the work to her dad… classic princess behavior. I posted a video of Chris and Kaia building the castle on my private Instagram Stories, to which one of his cousins semi accurately responded, “I’ve never seen Chris do so much manual labor in my life!” I told him she said this, to which he replied, “I define manual labor.”

Kaia is always glee-filled at the beach. Ever since she was a baby, she has loved the beach. There is nothing else my Pookie loves more than warm weather, clear water (and calm waves), and sand literally everywhere. And adding all the fish swimming around her was likely the cherry on top for her morning.

Buttermilk Falls State Park

Our last stop in the Finger Lakes region before heading back home today was at Buttermilk Falls State Park. The park is named after the foaming cascade (little waterfall) formed by Buttermilk Creek as it flows down the steep valley side toward Cayuga Lake, one of the eleven Finger Lakes. It was named for its “frothy” appearance of its churning waters. Similar to the rock formations at Taughannock Falls State Park, the rocks form in endless horizontal layers, creating flat slabs and angular, even sharp edges as they erode and fracture. The gorge and waterfalls formed since the last ice age, within the last twenty to thirty thousand years.

We did the gorge trail at Buttermilk Falls this morning, which was quite wet on and off throughout the walk up and down the stairs. There were times when we actually just had to walk through large puddles, which soaked our shoes and socks (Pookster was not a huge fan of this, but she was a good little trooper and sucked it up). After going through three of these gorge trails already, I am so impressed with how well maintained they are. The paths are very clearly defined; it would be impossible to take a wrong turn or get lost (…unlike the Mount Jo debacle I caused back in the Adirondacks in 2014 when I thought I would be disowned by my then-future in-laws). There’s really zero way for you to get lost on any of them, and all the stairs are sturdy and taken care of.

While the main Buttermilk Falls is impressive at this park, I would actually say that my favorite part is along the gorge trail further down, where you can see all the pinnacle-like rock formations with layers upon layers of stone etched out. The pinnacles flank all the little waterfalls that keep flowing into each other. When you look at the pinnacles, it almost appears as though a human etched them to look this way; it’s so beautiful and scenic, just asking to be stared at and photographed!

After this trip, I would say that the state parks in the Finger Lakes region are likely one of the most underrated, lesser known, and lesser appreciated public parks in the country. While I’d always been aware of the Finger Lakes region for wine and hiking, I didn’t actually realize how “gorges” the area was until doing research for this trip, and then finally going on it. I’d love to come back and see Watkins Glen State Park and some of the other gorges in the area. Who would have guessed that scenery like this existed in upstate New York?! We’re still always learning about the state, country, and world we live in.

Cascadilla Gorge, Taughannock Falls State Park, and Purity Ice Cream Co.

Much to Chris’s mom’s annoyance of walking on surfaces that are not flat or cement, we did two hiking trails today: in the morning, we visited Cascadilla Gorge, which drops 400 feet from Cornell’s campus to downtown Ithaca. The gorge is carved through bedrock — shale, siltstone and sandstone, exposing sedimentary rocks that were deposited over 400 million years ago. When you walk through the extremely well-maintained trail, it feels like one little waterfall after one big waterfall after endless waterfalls over and over. And if you take the gorge trail from the trail main entrance, you end up on the Cornell campus!

In the afternoon, we went to Taughannock Falls State Park and did the North and South Rim trails. The name “Taughannock” has Native American origins, as one translation suggests the name is derived from a combination of Iroquois and Algonquin terms meaning, “great fall in the woods,” which would be quite aptly named. The waterfall and gorge together are an example of a “hanging valley,” which is formed where Taughannock Creek’s stream-carved valley meets the deeper glacially carved valley that contains Cayuga Lake. When we reached the falls outlook point on this trail, I used my camera to zoom in on the fall’s base. You could see right away the effects of erosion over time right at that point.

It didn’t seem to matter how many waterfalls we saw on this short trip, but each one was incredible and breathtaking in its own way. I also loved seeing the different colors of the water at different points of the hike, and also when the sun occasionally poked out of the clouds to reveal itself. Though because Chris’s mom hates stairs, inclines, and anything that is even slightly uneven or not flat, she kept muttering, “Another waterfall? Again?” And not necessarily in a positive way…. It also gave way for some fun jokes. Even Kaia at some point said, “Another waterfall? I don’t want that! I’m tired!”

Kaia did get a very special treat at the end of the day, though: at the end of the day, we stopped at Purity Ice Cream Co, an Ithaca institution operating since 1936. It is known as “The Ice Cream of the Finger Lakes” and is quite the impressive ice cream shop: its storefront is huge, with generous seating (booths!), WiFi (a big plus for Chris’s dad), and huge restrooms. There’s even a drive-through where you can pick up ice cream and not even get out of your car! For the first time ever, we let Kaia have a waffle cone — she chose strawberry as her flavor. I shared it with her (since she’s never allowed to have her own to control sugar intake/portions), and I will say that the strawberry ice cream was truly excellent — really creamy, with strawberry flavor infused throughout, and generous with frozen chunks of strawberry fruit. And while I never get waffle cones, this waffle cone was really, really good. It still seemed like it was warm, maybe even fresh off the waffle cone iron, and it was thick and crispy throughout.

We could easily spend a week here exploring all the interesting food spots and hitting every single gorge, but alas, tomorrow is already Sunday and time to go home. I am still wondering how it took us this long to finally come up here. And I still can’t get enough of how good and fresh these state parks smell!

TIL that Cornell was built between two gorges

When I was in high school listening to peers around me talking about how they would choose the colleges they’d apply to, one criteria inevitably always came up when it came to private schools out of state (of California): the beauty of the campus. This seems a little ridiculous when you think about it: when you are enrolled and going through the hell of midterms or final papers and exams, do you really think you will be meditating on how beautiful your chosen college campus is?! My college had a beautiful campus, and while I did appreciate the architectural details, the large green lawns, and the lake, these details were always lost when I was stressing about my studies.

However, for those I knew who applied to and went to Cornell, whether that was for undergrad or grad work, not a single person ever, ever told me that the campus was intentionally built between two gorges: the Fall Creek Gorge and the Cascadilla Gorge. There’s a huge waterfall and dam that runs through the middle of the campus. From certain hills on the campus, you can see sweeping views of Cayuga Lake, which is one of the eleven Finger Lakes (and one of the most well known, next to Seneca Lake). And the university actually utilizes the natural water flow through Fall Creek Gorge to power a hydroelectric plant, which generates a portion of the campus’s electricity. That’s quite impressive. Ezra Cornell, who designed the university, intentionally built it around the two gorges. I just found this to be such a unique and impressive story, one I had zero idea about before visiting the campus today. And it would be very good future trivia on American colleges and universities — and a point in favor of Cornell being on the top lists for “most beautiful college campuses.”

Although I will say that as soon as I knew there were gorges around the campus, plus the huge dam, my mind (and eyes) immediately started looking for suicide netting… which I quickly noticed. The nets are like the suicide net around the Golden Gate Bridge — meant to feel like slicing yourself through a cheese grater if you chose to jump into it. Where there is beauty, there can also be pain.

Three-day weekend away by car

Two times a year, we rent a car for a long-weekend away somewhere. This usually happens once in the spring when Chris’s parents come visit. Post-pandemic and in an era of Pookster, we have stopped doing getaways by air with them and instead opt for car travel for this trip. In the autumn, we usually go somewhere in October for leaf peeping, and so Kaia can get her fix of pumpkin patches, fall festivities, and apple cider donuts. This year, Chris decided we would finally go up to the Finger Lakes region, which is about four hours north by car. We’ll be staying up in Ithaca and seeing the surrounding areas.

While I’d always heard Ithaca’s surrounds were a beautiful place given it’s right in the heart of the Finger Lakes, I actually didn’t realize what made it so pretty. Its slogan is “Ithaca is Gorges” for a reason: it is home to 150 gorges/waterfalls, with a number of them living in some very vast, unique state parks — all formed during the ice age. You can visit Ithaca Falls, a massive waterfall, just a few minutes drive outside of downtown Ithaca; for zero payment, you can park your car and walk right up to the waterfall and enjoy it! The major school nearby, Cornell, is flanked by two gorges. It seems every which way you turn in the area, there’s a stunning waterfall waiting for you!

When Chris plans these trips for his parents, he never tells them in advance where we’re going. So his dad is left guessing in the passenger seat by the road signs. It’s a little game for him, and Chris revels in keeping his parents guessing. He loves hearing all of his dad’s random guesses (some which would geographically be so impossible that they become hilarious). By this time, though, his mom has learned not to even bother asking. She simply asks about weather and keeps it at that.

And so, a “gorges” weekend awaits!