Fried chicken and soju

After waiting in the longest immigration line I’ve ever had to queue up in entering another country, we took the airport express into Seoul, dropped our bags off at our hotel, and set out to enjoy our first evening in Korea.

“What do you want to eat tonight — barbecue or fried chicken?” Chris asked.

Fried chicken. Yum.

We went to Han Chu, supposedly one of the best Korean fried chicken restaurants in the city, which is in the Garou-sil area (“tree-lined street) south of the river. There was English on the menu, but I wasn’t sure whether to get the “fried” chicken or the “seasoned” chicken. Fearing the chicken labeled only “fried” wouldn’t be seasoned that well, I got us the seasoned chicken and a bottle of soju. The soju bottle, enough for the both of us, only cost 5,000 won. No wonder Korea has a crazy drinking culture; the alcohol is so cheap!

When the chicken came to the table, it was piping hot and obviously freshly fried. It was coated in a dark, sticky, and thick red sauce topped with white sesame seeds. The batter was thicker than the Korean fried chicken I’d had back in New York, and the batter was seasoned more heavily, as well, with a darker brown color as opposed to the golden color I was so used to seeing.

I was curious about the fried chicken styles and found out after some quick research that there’s no real “Korean fried chicken style” — different places have different recipes and thickness of the batter. Some are heavier the way Southern fried chicken back home is (especially the ones being sold by street vendors I’ve seen in Myeongdong), while others are lighter like the Bonchon and Unidentified Flying Chicken Korean chicken I’d had in New York. The Bonchon or Kyochon style Korean fried chicken is the type that’s made it to the U.S. But this made me realize that what I consider to be Korean fried chicken isn’t the same fried chicken that Koreans in Korea consider their own fried chicken — these are the things you learn when you travel.

 

Step-by-step eating guide for bibimbap

We’re on our way to Seoul. With a connecting flight in Dallas, we’re about 19 hours away from kimchi and patbingsu (Korean shaved ice) galore. To get a taste of Korea before we even land, the American Airlines business class menu has a number of options that are Korean-influenced. Of course, there are the boring Western dishes that those fearful of Asian food will order, but the options are fairly good: ramen noodles in chicken broth with mushrooms and fresh vegetables, cold udon with meat and vegetables, kimchi chicken, and even bibimbap with minced beef.

To accompany the bibimbap that Chris ordered, a little step-by-step guide on how to eat it is presented on the tray. It includes details on how to mix the beef, vegetables, and rice all together, directions on how to stir in some gochuchang (Korean red pepper paste) and sesame oil (packaged) to taste, and of course, enjoy.

We find it funny because we’ve eaten bibimbap so many times, but I suppose for someone who’s never eaten any Korean food, the directions might actually be needed and appreciated. We all have to start somewhere, right?

“Communists”

I told my mom about a month ago that we planned a trip to South Korea for about nine days, and she didn’t seem very enthused by the idea. She’s never really known anything about Korean culture, nor has she been that interested in it. She thinks Korean food is too spicy and unhealthy (the unhealthy part… huh?), but she does enjoy kimchi, bibimbap, and japchae. She knows I like Korean food, though, so she wasn’t that surprised that we were going.

“Well, have fun,” she said reluctantly. “Don’t forget to e-mail your dad so that we know you’re okay over there. You have to be careful because a lot of Koreans are communists, so if you do something wrong in their country, they may kill you.”

“North Korea is a communist country,” I corrected her. “We’re going to South Korea. We can’t even go to North Korea even if we wanted to.”

“You just don’t know,” she said condescendingly (and erroneously). I could tell she was shaking her head on the other end of the line. “Many Koreans are communists. I’m warning you. I just know. Trust me. They’re just as bad as the Vietnamese.”

It’s always comical when your mom insists she knows more about the entire world than you do even though she can’t even identify any major country on a map if you gave it to her.

Presents from Paris

Chris came back from his week-long trip to France and surprised me with Jean-Ives Bordier butter, the famous butter churned in the Brittany region of France that is known for extremely high butter fat (well, all of France is known for that), grass-fed cow cream (resulting in yellower butter), and inventive flavorings. Last October when we went, I packed gallon-size ziplock bags and foil in anticipation of purchasing these special butters and bringing them back home, and it was so worth it. When we tasted these on bread, it was life-changing; the quality of the butter was unmistakable, and the taste could not be compared to anything I’d had here before. This time, Chris brought back five different flavors: smoked salt, which I’d loved and bought the first time, citrus olive oil, seaweed (or algae), espelette chili, and buckwheat. It will be a challenge to figure out how to use each of these, but I suppose the first step would be just to taste them on good bread. The buckwheat butter is especially strange, as the only thing I could think of doing with it would be to top it on pancakes or spread it on muffins.

Travel question

At a team lunch this week, I told my team mates that Chris and I would be leaving for South Korea late next week, and they all seemed to have this semi-puzzled look on their face, and they asked, “What are you going to be doing there?”

The funny thing about this question is that this never gets asked if you are going to some place like France, Italy, London, L.A., or some place that Westerners consider a hot spot. Even last year when we went to Japan, no one asked me what I’d be doing there; it was just assumed that I’d have an amazing time given Japan’s global reputation.

Why are we going to Korea? Because we like Korean food, want to explore Korean culture, and simply because we just like exploring new cities and countries around the world. I told my friend about my thoughts around this, and he said he got a similar reaction when he told friends and colleagues he was going to India the two times he went. He said everyone just assumed it was for work because why else would he want to visit a country like India?

Maybe I really am a culture snob, but I really just don’t like questions like that when they are aimed at certain places in the world.

“Everything looks the same”

I’ve spent the last 24 hours here in Fort Lauderdale for an all-day client meeting that happened today. Truthfully and as spoiled as this sounds, I rarely look forward to my work trips down to Fort Lauderdale because they are always for meetings that I know will rarely have concrete next steps. They are those froufrou meetings that end up being more about “putting a face to a name” and have nothing actionable that comes out of them. However, there are three things I like about these trips: 1) waking up for the sunrise on the east coast, since Fort Lauderdale is on the east side of Florida, 2) getting my trusty Publix sub sandwich at some point during my Florida stay, and 3) getting more American Airlines miles…. Mmmm, miles.

This afternoon during our Uber ride from the client’s office to Publix and finally to the airport, my colleague said to me, “I feel bad saying this… and this may just be me, but does everything in Florida really just look the same?” I’ve only been down here to see Fort Lauderdale and Tampa for work, plus Orlando for fun about six years ago…. but I realized… what she is saying is partially true. Florida feels like a lot of white people, boats, beaches, strip malls, and way too many chain restaurants and stores. Is it just us?

Then, I sat on a plane in first class with a Republican who is originally from Boston but relocated to Fort Lauderdale with his wife and is now raising three children, and he actually said this to me himself. “Everything here looks the same. If you want your children to have culture and be aware of the world, make sure you travel if you live here and don’t just have them stay here. They will be so sheltered and world-stupid.” Hmmmmm.

Strange airplane habits

I’m back on a plane today headed down to Fort Lauderdale for a client meeting, and I was lucky enough to get upgraded again on both legs to first class. As I sat down in my aisle seat on my first leg, the man sitting next to me in the window seat takes out a bunch of antibacterial wipes and begins wiping down the arm rests, the fold out cup holders, and tables. Then, he neatly wraps the wipes into a tiny little square and sets it on his arm rest. Just a little bit of a germaphobe, hm? When he got his two bags of apple chips during snack service, he ate each bag and folded both bags into the teeniest, tiniest little squares. It was like he was doing origami with them.

In three of the last four flights I’ve been on, I’ve sat next to a drunkard or soda addict. During my leg from JFK to DFW en route to Salt Lake City in first class, the man sitting next to me drank at least seven diet Cokes during a 4.5-hour-long flight (I really don’t think they’d give you that many sodas in economy). After the fourth one, he kept insisting each time that “this will really be the last one!” to the flight attendant, who simply smiled and said, “No problem!” each time. Another man showed his enjoyment of whiskey cokes by ordering four in a short flight. And today during a two-hour-long flight from Charlotte to Fort Lauderdale, the woman next to me drank four vodka sodas. They either use alcohol to cope with flying, or they are just drunkards.

What are the strange things I do on flights? I always wrap my leg up in blankets, even if I am wearing pants. Chris thinks this is really weird. I just always like to be warmer, especially when most airplanes will blast the air. If I am on a flight where I know I am getting back to my destination late, I will take my face wash, floss, and toothbrush and toothpaste into the airplane bathroom and wash my face, floss, and brush my teeth. Or if I have lounge access when Chris is with me, I will take care of all those things there before boarding the flight. This way when I get home, I can just drop all my stuff (well, more realistically, empty out all my bags because I am anal like that), sleep, and not worry about cleaning myself up for bed.

Utah – beautiful scenery, not so beautiful food

When we first talked about this Utah trip, we knew that we were coming here mainly to see the national parks and enjoy nature. Food would not be a priority at all, much to my great disappointment. After doing some cursory research on foods that Utah is known for, particularly around the southern portion of the state where we’d spend the majority of our time, we decided that this would probably be the only trip we will have ever taken where we weren’t going to get excited about the food at all.

I looked up Utah’s “famous foods,” and these were some of the items that came up on the list: “funeral potatoes,” or creamy potato, canned soup, cheese, and crushed corn flake casserole, which Mormon wives typically serve during post-funeral grieving (yum!), Jell-O, particularly the green colored kind (what the hell kind of state gets excited about eating Jell-O, especially the GREEN COLORED ONE?!), pastrami burgers (Chris’s response: “I can sh*t out better food than that”), and “Utah scones,” which are not your typical British scones… they are simply huge fried pieces of dough covered in honey and sugar. This list was enough to make me decide that we were pretty much going to eat cheap fast food and eat just to live, not eat to enjoy.

Our first meal in Kanab where we’d be spending two nights, we ate at the worst “Mexican” restaurant I’d ever been to. We had generic enchiladas and a burrito that had no flavor; in fact, they both tasted pretty much the same – bland, boring, and probably mostly of canned and non-fresh ingredients. The wait staff moved at the rate of snails, and their enthusiasm was nonexistent. The only redeeming quality was that the food came out extremely hot. That’s a sad redeeming quality.

For dinner our first night after hiking Zion the first day, we ate… McDonald’s. Chris had chicken McNuggets while I had my guilty pleasure sausage egg McMuffin with a hash brown (one interesting tidbit is that in the evenings, McDonald’s, at least at this location, makes all the breakfast items to order. I actually had to wait about 15 minutes for my sausage egg McMuffin and my hash brown, which has never, ever happened before). At Bryce, we had a decent turkey burger and salmon burger at their lodge. The place was reasonably priced and of decent quality. I’m sure the patties were pre-formed, but it’s not like we were expecting gourmet food. That evening, we had generic pizza from a random spot a block away from our hotel. It was sausage and mushroom, so it couldn’t have been that bad – at least there were no surprises. Finally, our last full day, we ate at a reasonable Mexican spot in Springdale just outside of Zion and had dinner at the Copper Onion, an up and coming restaurant in downtown Salt Lake City. The Copper Onion meal was the most notable, with house-made tortellini and fettuccine and a wagyu beef bone marrow. One funny thing was that the menu noted every item that used Maldon salt, the famous and high quality British salt I often read about. Maldon salt came with the bone marrow, which was a pretty and tasty touch, but there was no jam or gelee to cut the richness of the marrow, which was a bit of a fail. The food at both places was not the best and was pretty good, but we’ve certainly had better quality food in many other cities. We ended the trip with a last lunch at In’N’Out – probably our favorite meal of the entire trip. Too bad there wasn’t an In’N’Out in the town of Kanab.

Angel’s Landing and Scout Lookout

We originally wanted to hike to Angel’s Landing, but when we realized that the most treacherous part of the hike only had a rock that was about two feet wide with a chain in the middle, we both decided that it wouldn’t be the best idea for either of us. The park keeps track of the number of people who fall to their deaths. On the day before we were there, one man broke his ankle on the Angel’s Landing and had to be helicoptered down. We both had only regular sneakers, no hiking boots, and I also brought a backpack that was too heavy with our layers (sometimes, coming over prepared doesn’t really help in the long run. Chris suffered while carrying the heavy backpack going up the strenuous path up to Scout Lookout). We ended up hiking to the Scout Lookout just a half mile away from Angel’s Landing, but there was actually a long queue – about 40 minutes-wait – to climb up to the Angel’s Landing portion of the hike to get the priceless view of Zion!

We talked about people’s levels of fear regarding heights. We’re both probably in the middle when it comes to extreme fear and total lack of care of heights. Maybe mine is slightly less than Chris’s because I’ve done more hiking and rock scrambling than he has. Either way, he suggested that since we’re probably not coming back for a long time that if i want to go to the very end, he’d wait for me at Scout’s Lookout while I joined the line to hike to Angel’s Landing. I thought about it for a minute and decided against it.

I don’t want to just hike these trails just to do them and check them off my list. I want them to be shared experiences, so if he can’t go with me, then a big part of me doesn’t want to go at all. I want to look back on all these experiences and know we did them together. And even if I did do it, what… I’d have a photo of myself on Angel’s Landing, and he wouldn’t even be in it and would have had to wait an hour for me to get through and back. I’d always look back on this trip and remember I did it without him, which would always make me feel sad. That’s not a memory I want; that’s no fun to me. We’re in this together until the end.

Bryce Canyon

Today, we spent 11 hours hiking exploring Bryce Canyon National Park. I was surprised to see that it wasn’t very crowded at all, especially since it’s noted as one of the top two national parks tourists visit when coming to Utah. Bryce Canyon is most notable for its huge natural amphitheaters filled with endless hoodoos, which are strange long pointed geological structures shaped like deformed sticks or spires (or what Chris thinks look like upright penises with multiple cock rings). What is so striking about the hoodoos and the overall park is how the colors seem to change on the hoodoos depending on the angle you are looking at them from, and what time of day it is. We didn’t get to see the glowing oranges during sunrise or sunset, but as we walked around the amphitheaters during a blue sky vs. a grey sky, the colors looked very different depending on the sky and the angle of the view. The shades of orange, yellow, red, pink, and purple were at times more intense and at others, more subtle and nuanced. Some areas of Bryce Canyon resembled the Grand Canyon, while others clearly were a land of their own. I even overheard some other tourists say that Bryce Canyon “makes the Grand Canyon seem so boring!” I wouldn’t ever call the Grand Canyon colors and rock formations boring, but I completely understand why someone would say that after seeing Bryce’s endless hoodoos. They really do look as though they go on and on forever, and as far as the eye can see.

After 11 hours of hiking, our bodies were filled with the crisp and lush fresh air from the canyon, while our shoes and pants (and somehow, even my stud earrings) were covered in red sand and dust. I think we’ve set a record for the most number of steps done in a day on our Fitbits — over 35K miles and over 13.5 miles.