2am work calls

This work week has been absolute hell. Our team is way behind our revenue goal, and I’ve been taking client and conference calls at times anywhere between 1:30-7:30am, oftentimes waking up at 1:15 and staying up until 3, then waking up again at 5:30-6 for another set of calls. I cannot complain much about this given that I know I’m lucky to be able to work remotely at all, but of all the years I’ve come here and worked remotely, this year and this specific week have been the most brutal. I feel exhausted every day, and feel a little bad when I feel like dozing off when meeting with Chris’s family and friends. But, I am fortunate to have this choice to come here and not sacrifice my job.

My friend, who is doing her medical residency, is always so amazed every time I tell her I’m going on a trip or am spending 2.5 weeks in Australia and “working remotely.” As a doctor, she will never have the ability to work remotely. She will never have the flexibility I’ve been lucky enough to take advantage of. Hell, each year during her residency, she receives only two weeks of paid leave, and she needs to schedule them out almost a year in advance. In 2016, she took almost all her leave to attend our wedding and fly from Arkansas to Southern California, and that ultimately meant she missed two of her cousins’ weddings in California at other times of the year. It made me sad to know she made those sacrifices and missed out on those important family events, but I felt extremely touched she chose my wedding over her own blood relatives.

Observations of Aussies

When I’m traveling, I often write a short post on things that surprise me or are different than what I am used to back in the U.S. I realize that I don’t think I’ve done one for Australia even though I’ve visited this country five times now, so maybe it’s time to compile a short list.

  1. Everyone says “Merry Christmas” here, even those who aren’t Christian and don’t celebrate Christmas. Take that, you politically correct American idiots. “Happy holidays” is such a crap saying. The more I see “Merry Christmas, Melbourne” signs and hear “Merry Christmas” being said to everyone and anyone here, the more annoyed with New York and San Francisco I get. Trump got one thing right: Americans, especially those who live on the coasts and in blue states, are way too obsessed with being politically correct just to seem like they aren’t racist or prejudiced. When are people going to realize that so many people love Christmas for the beauty or material aspect of it rather than the religious part? The island nation of Mauritius is 80% Muslim, yet everyone has a Christmas tree and wishes each other “Merry Christmas” happily and freely. They aren’t standing around getting offended because they are Muslim.
  2. Most bathroom stalls are actually toilets in rooms with locks. They’re not the cheap bathroom stalls where you can see people’s feet underneath and hear literally everything going on as someone is pissing or shitting. They’re not as concerned with cutting costs here as they are in the U.S.
  3. The obsession with renovations and new construction and newness in general is so tiring here. A home that is 20 years old here is considered old and time to tear down to build a new one; the Marriott Circular Quay where we’re staying in Sydney for the next day while Chris is there for work has its lobby under construction until March 2017. If you asked me, I would say it looked pretty modern and fancy when we were there this time last year.
  4. No one cares what you do for a living here. In the U.S. when you meet someone for the first time, chances are that within the first few back and forth questions to get to know each other, the question of what you do will come up quickly. Here, no one seems to care what anyone else does. Most of Chris’s family, who I’ve been seeing every year for the last five years, have no freaking clue what I do for a living, nor do they care. The question doesn’t even come up. And that’s not to say they don’t care about me, but they don’t care about the prestige or lack of prestige my job has. It feels so refreshing to not discuss work and money.
  5. Orange yolked eggs. I cannot get enough of these. Chickens eat grass and bugs here, which is normal. In the U.S. for the most part, they eat corn and grain. That’s not normal. And that results in yellow yolks, which are never as pretty or as nutritious as the orange yolks.
  6. Water is never poured into glasses for you when you sit down at a table. Servers usually ask you if you’d like water, then if you say yes, they bring over a water-filled carafe and two glasses. You serve yourself. Minimize water waste. The world needs it.
  7. For my racist cousin: it’s common to see Asian man/white woman couples here and not just Asian woman/white man couples the way we do in the U.S.
  8. CAR TAXES ARE SO EXPENSIVE. Your $40K Lexus in the U.S. will cost something like $100K here in Australia. Eeeek.
  9. Australians in general get far more paid leave than the average American. However, when they do request leave, it’s such a big deal because they really do need someone to sub in for their work (me? I check email every single day I’m on paid time off and in many cases respond at least once a day). Most of the time, they are asking for leave and also providing a reason, so everyone knows what they are doing and where they are going. I’ve never really tried to justify my time of with a reason; in fact, most of my employers could care less what I do with my free time.
  10. Bathrooms here are usually marked with signs that say “toilets” with a directional arrow. In the U.S., we usually write “restrooms.” I guess “resting” is eliminating body waste?
  11. People in Australia hear so much and keep up with American news, and in America, we hear little to no Australian news. Australians care about the world, and America doesn’t give a shit and lives in its own bubble, literally believing that the world revolves around America. Isn’t that why so many people in America say they don’t care what foreigners think about U.S. policies or Trump being president, and are constantly saying they don’t need to take advice from people “who weren’t even born in this country”?

Attica

Tonight, Chris’s parents took us to the renowned and highly respected restaurant Attica as our early Christmas present. Attica is on pretty much every list for the world’s best restaurants, and after dining here, it’s hard to see why it would not be on the list. Although Chris and I have been privileged enough to have dined at some of the best restaurants around the world and especially in New York City, the dining experience at Attica was in a world of its own. New York City’s Eleven Madison Park is probably the top overall dining experience I’ve ever had when it comes to uniqueness of local ingredients, presentation, and outstanding but unpretentious service, but Attica takes “local” to another level. The chef who has now bought the restaurant is originally from New Zealand, and he grew up on a farm where he was accustomed to eating things grown right in front of him. He wanted to bring that experience to his restaurant, and so he incorporates hyper-local ingredients that you literally can find only in Australia, such as wattle seed, bunya bunya nut, Santa Claus melon, plum pine (he’s obsessed with this, as it’s literally everywhere on the dinner and cocktail/mocktail menu), and anise myrtle, among other seafood, greens, and herbs.

Attica has its own back patio where the staff grows its own herbs and vegetables, and before dinner service, they snip the vegetables and greens minutes before being served. They also use the land at the Rippon Lea Estate across the street as grounds to grow fresh produce. And given that the air is cleaner and fresher here than it is in New York City, I’d trust this produce more than the produce being grown on rooftop gardens or back patios in Manhattan. Attica is one of the freshest dining experiences I’ve ever had, and with beautiful plating that is reminiscent of Eleven Madison Park. One of the dishes is kangaroo completed covered with thinly sliced purple carrot. We learned from one of the cooking shows featuring Attica that each of these dishes takes about five minutes for the kitchen staff to hand plate.

Another thing that was notable and unique about the restaurant was how diverse the kitchen staff is. With most kitchen staffs I’ve seen in New York, the people working in the front of house are primarily white, while the back of house/cooking staff are Latino/white. Here at Attica, the kitchen staff represents all colors and areas of the world. Accents were varied depending on the person, and it was refreshing to see this for the very first time in such a world-acclaimed restaurant.  Attica is representative of everything good and progressive about the world. Now, if only other famous restaurants could mimic this desire for diversity, as well as other major companies around the world.

 

Onboard

I don’t think I will ever get over how good Qantas service is compared to any U.S. airline service. Even when I first flew in their economy cabin, I felt like I was being treated with such respect in the way that a paying customer should be. In Business Class, it’s pretty much on steroids in terms of quality of service; they make your “bed” for you before it’s time to sleep, they check in with you to make sure you aren’t hungry or thirsty or need anything else, and when you hit your “call” button, the flight attendants come over in less than 2 minutes. When you ask them what small plates are available between official meals, they give you a full description of the dish and talk about how delicious and fulfilling it is as though they are servers working on tips in restaurants. On U.S. airlines, it’s “pasta” or “salad.” And in the U.S., you probably need to be choking or passed out for someone to come to your seat that quickly. U.S. workers in general are so freaking entitled.

Valencia’s paella

Paella is not understood in the U.S. Maybe it’s not even understood in the world outside of Spain. People in Valencia don’t even think that people outside of Valencia understand paella, so I guess the rest of the world is absolutely screwed then. I always associated paella with seafood since that’s how it’s typically served at Spanish restaurants I’ve been to in the U.S., but I learned today that similar to sushi in Japan, paella was originally considered poor man’s food. When meat and seafood were rare and expensive, working men prepared paella, mainly with snails, because rice and snails were both plentiful and extremely cheat. Original versions of paella had a combination of chicken, rabbit, snails, and green and white beans. The current seafood variations we now embrace today are more modern interpretations, and they’re actually not called “paella” in Valencia, but “rice with seafood” translated. They call it paella at the restaurants to cater to foreigners’ tastes. We still ended up getting the seafood paella at the famous paella restaurant we visited here, and at 3pm, we were eating at especially Spanish time for lunch. The rice was cooked in a shallow pan the authentic way over a massive fire, and each grain of rice was distinct, infused with the strongest and richest seafood taste. The socarrat bottom, or the crispy bottom that I loved eating in the rice I had growing up, was also present in this pan along the perimeter. This massive plate was a plate of heaven. It’s as though all my feelings about Spanish food and paella have been changed just because of this one meal.

The 18-euro bottle of red wine also helped. These are all the joys of traveling abroad and learning about other cultures that could never fully be recreated back home.

Toledo

During my AP Art History course in high school, we studied artwork that came from so many cities I’d never even heard of. Granted at that point, I’d never left the country, much less the west coast of the U.S., so I was quite sheltered in my understanding of the world, and my geography knowledge was pretty much nonexistent. One of the famous paintings we studied was painted by a Greek painter known as El Greco, who relocated to Toledo, Spain, and remained there until his death. Although he was known for painting portraits and vibrant, passionate religious scenes, he painted two rare landscape paintings, one of which has remained in my head since I studied it. It was the painting View of Toledo, a view from the Mirador de Valle of Toledo overlooking the entire city in the late 1500s, and the sky was violent, threatening to storm at any second. It’s strange how I’ve forgotten so many paintings I studied in art history, yet this one has still stuck in my head. The sky was notable at the time and is said to be one of the most famous landscape paintings of all time, as high up there as Van Gogh’s Starry Night.

We ended up taking a half-day trip to this UNESCO World Heritage city from Madrid today.  The train ride was only half an hour, yet in half an hour, we were in a completely different world. The entire town looks just like it had over 400 years ago when El Greco painted this scene; because of its World Heritage listing, the entire city is banned from allowing any modern structures to be built; all the buildings and the historical landmarks must be preserved. It’s strange to imagine that this city looked exactly the way it did over four centuries ago. With us walking around it all day today, it felt so strange; we look out of place in this city that existed during Medieval times. It’s also a city that is known for having Christianity, Judaism, and Islam coexist all at once. Perhaps Trump should go visit this city as a reminder that not all Muslims are terrorists and mass murderers.

Art history

In my sophomore year in high school, I took Advanced Placement Art History, and it was a real struggle in the beginning. I got a D on my first exam (only because of the curve; otherwise, I would have gotten an F). The lectures were incredibly boring in the beginning. Looking at old-school slide after slide of these flat paintings and sculptures was tedious and made me sleepy. I found the textbook we were using to be so long and dry, without much context for what each art period really meant in the overall context of history. Why should our history classes be separated from our art history classes, and why should European history be separated from U.S. history? None of that made sense to me then, and it still doesn’t make sense to me now. We only remember and truly understand ideas when they are in context, and it frustrates me to no end the way the education system here is set up. So, it makes sense that progressive countries with high worldwide ratings like Finland are proposing to eliminate subjects altogether and emphasize the interconnection across everything we’re supposed to learn.

I ended that year with a A in AP Art History even though my teacher then probably thought I was a complete moron (she said she was very proud of me at the end), and I also got a 5 on the AP exam (that’s right, haters — the highest score). And of the paintings that we studied that was said to be one of the most important and famous paintings in the world was Las Meninas, painted by Diego Velazquez in 1656, and at the Museo Del Prado, which we visited today in our first day in Madrid. The Mona Lisa may be the most famous painting in the world among people who don’t know much about art, but for those who study and analyze art, Las Meninas is the pinnacle, the most elusive, the most confusing and the most complex. It’s mainly because there are so many subjects in the painting, and even the painter himself is depicted in it. I always thought the little girl, Philip IV’s daughter Margaret Theresa, depicted in the foreground was the most interesting; her eyes tend to follow you in the same way that the Mona Lisa eyes follow you. I also love the way her dress, skin, and hair appear. She’s perfect, like a porcelain doll, but her expression is so odd. She’s like this little pampered, innocent creature about to be tainted by the world.

Chris said she resembles JonBenet Ramsey. I reminded him that this was in the 1600s, so way before JonBenet’s time. Maybe the Ramsey family wanted their daughter to look like the infant Margaret Theresa.

Random observations about Spain

Every time I travel, I am always looking for things that I’m not used to seeing or experiencing. These are some of the things I’ve noticed since we’ve arrived.

  1. Dogs are oftentimes not on leashes in Barcelona, and they are no where as manicured and clothed and groomed as they are in cities like New York, San Francisco, and LA. These dogs look scruffy, dirty, and like they need a brushing. They look like… dogs. Real dogs. Not the ones that get bathed and brushed and preened every day.
  2. Like in Korea, no one seems to care if you use their restaurant bathroom even if you didn’t eat or drink at their restaurant. I guess when you gotta go, you gotta go.
  3. Wine is so cheap here, and unlike in the U.S., cheap does not necessarily mean crappy quality. Here, cheap actually means really good wine. I suppose that’s the case in most of Europe, but it should be odd to you when a glass of extremely delicious, fruity, and easy to drink red wine is 2 euros, and your bottle of water is 4 euros. Okay, let me correct that. It should be odd to you if you are American. We really take water for granted in the U.S. in restaurants.
  4. You’ll never get water served to your table unless you ask for it. And when you do ask for it, you will definitely be paying for it. So enjoy it, and as much of it as possible.
  5. Here, we’re on Spanish time, so it will never be as on time as in countries like Japan or Korea. Your train isn’t really going to depart at exactly 8:22. Slow down, take your time, and relax.
  6. Why is the subway here so clean?! There’s not a single piece of trash on the subway tracks anywhere. In New York, it’s laden with trash to the point where we get track fires because of dumb people’s littering and laziness.
  7. In markets in New York, the common fruits and vegetables you will see are the most boring ones: apples, regular Cavenish bananas, oranges, tomatoes, carrots, broccoli. In markets in Spain, you get to see their version of “common” and “everyday,” which include cherimoyas (WHAT?!!! I’m in heaven), dragon fruit, endless artichokes, and the most beautiful and colorful tomatoes ranging in shapes, wrinkles, sizes, and colors (even purple, pink, and bright green). And the produce is cheap. It’s like robbery.
  8. There’s a massive obsession with preserved white asparagus. I really don’t get that. The clear glass bottles of preserved white asparagus are literally everywhere.
  9. People jay walk here. We really haven’t seen this at all in any other European city. Chris fits right in.

Antoni Gaudi

This trip, at least the Barcelona portion, has become the trip all about Antoni Gaudi. Yesterday, we visited his Sagrada Familia cathedral. Today, we’ve visited his Casa Batllo and La Pedrera, and tomorrow, we’ll be seeing his Parc Guell. Gaudi was a deeply religious man, and hence he was called “God’s architect.” He felt that his work was a calling from God and the Catholic faith. Though I found little information about his wealth or lack thereof, we assume based on how he died that he did not live a materially wealthy life, as he got hit by a tram during his walk to confession and was completely nondescript, wearing shabby clothing and having no identification on him. No one knew who he was and all assumed he was a beggar, so they took him to the hospital for the poor. The next day, he was recognized by the Sagrada Familia chaplain, but by that point, it was too late. He died two days after being recognized. He was 73 years old. That made me feel so sad; all of life seems to be about material wealth; people care about you if you are rich and dismiss you if they think you are poor. Or as Chris said, “Why didn’t he have any money? What a loser. This is why we need capitalism.” Great.

These moments also make me question what my purpose here on earth is. Gaudi felt that the Catholic faith drove him in his quest to build architecturally stunning works of art. What drives me to wake up every day, and what contribution am I going to be remembered for one day when I die?

Tapas education

Our first day in Barcelona began with a timed ticket to the famous Sagrada Familia cathedral built by Antoni Gaudi, the revered Catalan Spanish architect. The cathedral is one of the very few churches that Chris and I have actually paid to visit (the only only church I distinctly remember paying to get into was the Sainte Chapelle church in Paris in 2011), and after visiting it, I have zero regrets. Given the number of times it was started and stopped and incomplete, it makes sense that it shows so many influences, from Gothic to Art Nouveau to Catalan modernism. When inside the cathedral and looking up, I can’t help but feel a little spooked at how eerie the entire feeling of this massive complex is. It’s like I’m in the Twilight Zone, except this is reality. It also felt like A Nightmare Before Christmas was going to begin in the church at any moment.

If that wasn’t already surreal and overwhelming, we then went to La Boqueria, the famous market in Barcelona, and sat at Pinotxo Bar for lunch. I’ll be honest: at the risk of sounding uncool, I’d never really been that into Spanish tapas before. I was never sure if it was me or the restaurants I was going to, but there was never a Spanish restaurant I’d been to where I had small plates and thought, “wow, I can’t wait to go back there!” or that I had a craving for those same dishes again. Pinotxo Bar made me realize that there was plenty to be obsessed about with Spanish cuisine. We shared four small plates of ham and cheese croquetes, grilled venison, grilled lamb, and grilled octopus, and from that point on, I will never say I don’t care for Spanish tapas again. The croquetes were teeny tiny and literally bite-sized, but they were fried to a point where they weren’t greasy at all and had a rich melty cheese mouth feel. The venison was the best venison of my life: a bit medium rare, perfectly seasoned and gamey. The lamb was the same; no confusion about whether it was really lamb or not. But I think the octopus was really what blew both of us away. This little plate of sliced octopus was lightly grilled, then sprinkled with Spanish paprika, grey salt, and drizzled with the most delicious and fruity olive oil. The salt itself was spectacular and so distinctive that I found myself picking off tiny grains of salt off the plate and eating them.

The food was all so simply prepared but so incredibly good and satisfying. We didn’t leave too full or hungry, but just satisfied to the right point. And with rioja wine at just 2.75 euros a glass, I wondered why we hadn’t indulged in much Spanish wine before this trip. If this is what Spanish food is about, lots of small plates of simply but beautifully prepared food with perfect little ingredients, I could get used to this.