Category Archives: Contemplation

A connecting flight went awry from MIA to JFK

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From Port of Spain, we flew to Miami for our connecting flight back to New York. In Miami, we cleared immigration, gathered our checked bags, re-submitted our checked bags, and went through security. The line was actually much quieter than we had anticipated, likely because we were there on the 4th of July. So while it was annoying to have to clear immigration and get and re-check our bags, at least we knew we wouldn’t have to do this again once we reached New York.

The connecting flight from MIA to JFK was smooth… or at least, it was smooth until we were circling New York, and then the pilot announced that due to inclement weather (WHAT WEATHER?), no planes were allowed to land at JFK, and instead of circling the airport to wait on landing clearance, they were going to fly us straight back to Miami!

When I first heard the pilot say this, my first (usual) thought was, “Is this some crazy joke?!” But of course, it wasn’t. We were seriously going to fly all the way back to Miami and wait to see when the “weather concerns” cleared up so that planes could land.

This could have ended really badly; I had worst case scenarios circling in my head about what I’d have to do for work and when. We could have never even made it to New York on Sunday or even Monday depending on the weather/airport/landing situation. But luckily for us, while we were still in the air going back to Miami, the pilot announced that we could go back and land. So the plan was to land the plane, re-fuel, inspect the plane, and then immediately fly back. The flight crew would remain in tact, as their day started with us, so there was no concern about timing out. If we chose to get off the plane, we’d have to take all our belongings and get off, and would not be allowed to re-board and take this flight back to New York.

We were schedule to land just before 1am on the 5th of July. In the end, we flew to New York, turned around to fly back to Miami. We stayed in Miami for about 30 minutes before getting back into the air and flying back to JFK (Chris noted that this in-air time already exceeded our flight from Trinidad to Miami!). We landed just after 5:30am. So yes, while we were delayed 5.5 hours, this easily could have been so, so much worse. Chris and I didn’t sleep at all; Kaia slept, but her slumber was obviously disrupted.

We got back home, unpacked, and did three loads of laundry. We tried to sleep, but Kaia made it a bit challenging (“WHY ARE YOU SLEEPING! I don’t want you to to sleep! I want you to take me out to blow bubbles!” — says the person who actually slept in flight…). I did sleep for about an hour. I took Kaia out for bubbles and playground time (it was deserted; what a quiet time to be in the city!). I made a full home-cooked meal for us — niku udon loaded with veggies and roasted broccoli with shio kombu. I also steamed banh chung from the freezer and roasted red bell peppers. I started food prep for tomorrow by soaking two types of beans, brown rice, and quinoa. Although we’ve had an amazing time being away the last two weeks, I will say that I was happy to be back in my own bed tonight, and happy to be back in my kitchen.

Orange-winged amazons outside our window in Port of Spain; warnings around the world from well-meaning older ladies

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Today was our last morning in Trinidad and Tobago, as well as our last day of this trip before flying home. From our hotel window, I watched as many orange-winged amazons flew in pairs around the large trees along Queen’s Park Savannah. From what I can remember, this is likely the most fascinating bird watching area of the world I’ve ever been in. I’ve already lost count of the number of different, colorful, and gorgeous bird species I’ve been lucky to see here. Even Kaia has gotten into it: she also loved watching the orange-winged amazons fly around in Port of Spain. In Grenada, she pointed out new birds she noticed. And just two days ago, she excitedly pointed out a little kiskadee, which is considered the best known bird of Trinidad.

“It’s yellow! It’s yellow!” Kaia kept shrieking delightfully.

Kaia noticed the little kiskadee because of its bright yellow breast. It had a black and white streaked face with a brown back. These birds are known to be very loud chirpers and have fearless behavior; it didn’t seem to mind us being so close. I’m not that excited to go back to New York and mostly see pigeons and seagulls again — the freaking rats and roaches of the bird world. I suppose the sparrows and the occasional American robin are fine.

We had limited time in the morning before we had to head to the airport, so we took a quick trip to Charlotte Street, the main drag of Port of Spain Chinatown, to browse and also finally buy a magnet for this segment of our trip. Saturday morning is a great time to be in Port of Spain Chinatown, as all the fruit and vegetable vendors have their little stalls set up so you can buy their fresh produce. Lots of people were walking the streets to buy food; it felt like we may have been the only tourists there. We saw piles and piles of scotch bonnets, pimento peppers, papayas, multiple mango varieties, and other fresh fruit and vegetables waiting to be purchased. I crossed a street to take a look at a bakery I noticed, and as I was leaving the bakery, an older Trini woman, likely in her late 60s, stopped me and got close to my face.

“I’m a Trini woman, born and raised here,” the older lady started with me. “And I can tell you that these streets are not safe for someone like you. Why are you here? There are other places for you to go and see!”

I have lost count of the number of times I’ve been stopped by well meaning older women who tell me that I shouldn’t be in a certain area, with my phone or camera in my hand. They’ve told me that I should stay and walk close to my husband, that someone will easily hurt or rob me in a given place.

“Why am I here?” I wrinkled my brow at her. “I wanted to come see the fruit! What’s wrong with this area? I am perfectly fine!”

“You want to buy fruit? Then you should go down that street over there!” She responded, pointing out Independence Square. There were very, very few fruit vendors on that next street…

I told her I was walking across the street, and she said that she would walk with me. I had no idea what she wanted from me and why she was being so forceful. When she saw that I was meeting Chris and Pookie, she started telling Chris to not let me walk on my own, to always stay close to me, that it was dangerous to let me walk by myself along that street. Chris insisted to her that I was fine and everything was good. She finally relented and walked off.

I know all these ladies around the world mean well. But what they may not realize they could be doing is inadvertently perpetuating the potential perceived notions of their countries being dangerous places to be or visit. That’s not really a great way to market your town or country.

Trini mango varieties at a wholesale market and the most delicious “buss up shut” roti of my life in Port of Spain

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After chatting with our smoothie guy about Central Market and Chinatown as being the best places to get local fruit, we made our way to Central Market this morning. It’s a wholesale market that runs late at night, with peak times being around 11pm, then again at around 4am. These are not times I would ever be at any market, so when we went this late morning, it unfortunately was not surprising to see that a lot of vendors were sold out or already gone for the day. However, we did find vendors selling some mango varieties that we had not tried yet, and did not even know about. We sought out and got five starch mangoes for $20TTD, and we also picked up some mango vert (vert means “green” in French, but these are actually yellowish green). The teeny tiny mangoes that were next to the mango vert were “dodo” mangoes, named because of how small they are; four can comfortably sit in the palm of your hand! They are very sugary sweet mangoes that are considered “snacking mangoes” here given their size. Each mango can yield about four small bites before you hit the pit. Of all the mango varieties, this was likely the most one-dimensional tasting one — just straight forward sweet with zero complexity. I would not get those again.

And where there is a wholesale market, there must be ready made/made to order food. So we popped into the indoor area where vendors had different stalls. Most were closed, but a couple were open, including one that had a promising “fish broth” sign. Given fish is part of the market, we thought this could be really good. The older lady operating it said she’d add a fish steak to my soup, so she asked me to give her some time. When she presented the massive bowl with the fish steak on top, I couldn’t believe how massive it was. Good thing this was going to be shared among three of us! The vendor called the fish salmon, but it actually wasn’t salmon: it was a white sea trout. In Trinidad, as I later learned, people refer to sea trout as salmon, but I’m unclear why. It was very flaky, meaty, and lean. The fish broth was really rich, likely made with endless fish bones!

Our next stop was at Dobson’s Roti Shop, which is a popular institution amongst locals and tourists alike in Port of Spain. Our driver for the Caroni Bird Sanctuary told us it was her favorite roti shop. So while you may be familiar with Indian roti, Trinidadian roti is slightly different. Trini roti is also referred to as “buss up shut” roti, derived from their accent when they say “busted up shirt” (this really makes me chuckle), a paratha that is super soft, flaky, and endlessly layered. The name is perfect to describe its appearance because while cooking the roti on the tawa, it is “crushed” and beaten a few times with metal spoons/spatulas to separate its delicate layers. So in the end, it really does resemble a “busted up” shirt! This roti was originally brought to the Caribbean by East Indian indentured laborers, and is known as one of the THE foods representing the multi-ethnic culture of Trinidad and Tobago. Like in India, this roti is used as an edible utensil to sop up gravies, stews, and curries.

We got to the roti shop just ahead of prime lunch hour, so we ordered a beef curry roti with no line. The roti came hot and steaming, wrapped in foil, alongside a big styrofoam takeout container which included a huge portion of curry beef, mashed spiced savory pumpkin, chickpea curry, and a very thick mango chutney, complete with its skins and all. When I unwrapped the roti, I knew it was going to be good: it was this HUGE piece of paratha, with layers that basically draped and fell all over the place. Kaia was obsessed and kept reaching for more roti between bites of beef and channa. I’m honestly not sure what I liked more: the doubles from the previous night or this insanely delicious roti! Roti was definitely meant to be taken away or eaten on the go, as we had the only two seats at the one tiny table in the front. But we were thrilled to see they had a tiny little sink with soap for us; roti is meant to be eaten with your hands – definitely not a fork and knife situation!

After lunch, we stopped at a nearby shop for some ice cream and got soursop and peanut flavor. Peanut flavored things are huge here: you can see lots of shops selling chocolate candy bars with whole peanuts, peanut punch (peanut butter, whey protein, milk, and sugar!), and peanut desserts like this one. Of course, soursop is huge here. The soursop ice cream was very good — the cream and sugar rounded out some of the “oil spill” flavor I tend to get when I have soursop straight as a fruit, which makes me a bit wary of having it as fresh fruit. Since soursop has a high concentration of natural sugars, when the fruit becomes overripe or sits too long at room temperature, wild yeasts on the skin can break down these sugars. This process produces ethanol and other alcohol byproducts. So, in concentrated amounts, this chemical fermentation smells and tastes intensely sharp, similar to turpentine, gasoline, or nail polish remover. This is the flavor I unfortunately get frequently when trying fresh soursop fruit!

We have to wake up for a 6:30am ferry to go to Tobago on a day trip tomorrow, so our dinner tonight ended up just being a bunch of the mangoes we got at the market, along with the cutlass mangoes gifted to us. Kaia loved the mango vert and the starch. “I WANT VERT! I WANT VERT!” she kept yelling. I love seeing her get into all the Caribbean mangoes here, especially after she refused to try a single mango variety our entire time in India together just three years ago. It was a very delicious day in Port of Spain, for sure.

Last stop on our Caribbean island-hopping summer trip: Trinidad & Tobago

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Before this trip, I knew very little about Trinidad & Tobago. In the pandemic year of 2020, Chris and I started exploring more neighborhoods across the five boroughs of New York City. Since we were blocked from traveling internationally, we figured that given the unique diversity of our city of residence, we could go to different neighborhoods and still get exposed to different cultures; that would be our “international travel” within our own city. During that year, we visited a Trinidadian roti shop in Crown Heights, and my eating life changed forever: I had one taste of doubles, a beloved street food of Trinidad and Tobago, and it was like love at first bite. Doubles are two small, quickly fried little chewy flatbreads (baras) served with a hearty, savory, spiced filling of curried chickpeas (channa), oftentimes topped with different types of chutneys and a hot pepper sauce. Sometimes, shops give the option of adding different curried meats, like chicken, beef, or goat, to your doubles for an extra charge. The filling is wrapped with two little baras (hence the name “doubles), and you eat it like a mini sandwich/tiny burrito. They are usually filled to order, then wrapped and twisted up with a piece of paper and handed over to you; they are best eaten AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. At that point in time, of course I’d eaten lots of different Indian foods, but this curried chickpea mix, coupled with the two little fluffy baras, was just different to me, and I couldn’t quite pinpoint why. The spice blend of the channa was not the same as what I’d had before. The chewiness and pillowy texture of the bara was incredibly addictive. And from that one experience, I knew if given the option, I could eat doubles every single day and be happy!

The second exposure I got to “Trini” culture was via my two night nurses. I got a reference through a parents group for my first night nurse, Cheryl, who happened to be Trinidadian. Since she spent a lot of time at our place, we talked a lot about how she grew up, her culture, and food. She talked a lot about the Indian influence on Trini culture and cuisine. She also told us about areas of Queens and Brooklyn to check out for Trini food and shops. Once, Cheryl brought us a bag of pickled, spiced pommecythere, also known as June plum or golden apple. I remember it being a really addictive combination of sweet, sour, salty, and a little spicy; the crunch was also delicious! She also told us about the whole network of Trini night nurses across the U.S. and how interconnected they are. When her time was up with us, she introduced us to a second Trini night nurse, who may have taken even better care of Kaia than she did!

So the little I was exposed to Trini culture before this trip was enough to get me to this presumption: I knew of the four islands we’d visit — Barbados, St. Lucia, Grenada, and Trinidad & Tobago, that T&T would very likely be my most favorite place to eat on this trip. And after just a day here, I am willing to bet that assumption will not be wrong!

I guess when I think of Trinidad & Tobago, I think more about Trinidad than I do of Tobago, which is not entirely my own fault. Trinidad & Tobago as a single country has two names because it was formed by joining two completely separate islands. Trinidad is the larger, main island (hence why I always think about its culture and influence first). Even though it’s a Caribbean island, Trinidad feels more urban, multicultural, diverse, and commercial. Tobago is the smaller island that was, at least historically, economically weaker, but more village-centered, tied to fishing, folk traditions, harvest festivals, and a slower-paced island identity. Tobago has a more rural, Afro-Caribbean vibe.

This is a pretty good quick outline I found of the ethnic and religious diversity of Trinidad and Tobago, one of the Caribbean’s most culturally mixed islands: Its culture blends:

African heritage from slavery and emancipation, visible in Carnival, calypso, steelpan, stickfighting, Spiritual Baptist traditions, drumming, and foodways.

Indian heritage from indentureship, visible in roti, doubles, curry, choka, tassa, chutney, Hindu and Muslim festivals, and family/community traditions.

European colonial influences, especially Spanish, British, and French Creole, visible in place names, Catholic traditions, architecture, Carnival history, and social structures.

Chinese, Syrian/Lebanese, Portuguese, and Venezuelan/Latin American influences also shaped food, commerce, music, and migration patterns.

If you have that many cultures in a single place, the food is destined to be good.

For our meals thus far, for lunch today we ate at an open-air food center along Ariapita Avenue, a main drag for restaurants, bars, and nightlife. We had a steamed kingfish plate, a garlic shrimp plate, and all came with a mix of vegetables, coleslaw, coconut rice, and mashed potato. The garlic shrimp was perfectly cooked (Kaia was obsessed with it!), and the kingfish was well seasoned and had a little bit of house made green pepper sauce that had a fruity forward flavor with a tiny, tingly burn at the end.

Today, we did a sunset tour of Caroni Bird Sanctuary, which is supposed to be the number one tourist experience here in Trinidad. On our boat that went through swamps and marshes, we were able to see a snake, anteater, and some other indigenous animals in their sleepy state. And for the main highlight, we saw countless North American flamingos (“Americans!” Chris grumbled) as well as the national bird of Trinidad and Tobago: the scarlet ibis, hoards of them all flying high in the air and settling upon a specific little island in the marshes. The scarlet ibis is a huge bird with a large wingspan, long neck, and a nearly fluorescent, bright orangish-red hue. Originally, Chris was not very enthused at the idea of going on a bird watching boat tour (“What is this? Some overpriced tourist trap where I have to see a bunch of birds I don’t care about instead of actually getting to eat them?!)” But when he finally caved in and booked the tour for us (THIS MORNING for this late afternoon!) and we went out on the 2.5-hour boat tour, he actually seemed to enjoy it. He marveled at the dozens of flamingos we saw in their natural habitat, saying that this was, “like something you’d see on the Discovery Channel” but instead we were seeing it ourselves in real life. And he even seemed to get excited when he saw his first red ibises flying high in the air. Who would have thought that my very own Chris could have his own “birding” moments?

I thought Kaia would enjoy the boat tour more, but she actually got bored after a while and kept asking when we were going to go back. She was likely getting hungry and tired, as the boat tour ended at 6:30, and on her usual schedule, she would have eaten by this time. While she did enjoy seeing the many flamingos and scarlet ibises, as well as the catfish in the water, we couldn’t hold her attention span the full 2.5 hours. We had many moments of moaning, whining, and crying. I guess she really is a 4.5-year-old after all…

Our tour included pickup and drop-off, so we asked our driver to take us back to Ariapita Avenue, the main food and bar drag, so we could grab a quick bite before heading back to the hotel. While on the avenue, she pointed out a doubles truck parked and set up with a small line forming and asked if we’d be interested in stopping there. I saw the doubles sign, the truck setup, and the little crowd forming, and I knew this was exactly what we wanted… and needed! So we got out and ordered four “regular” doubles (channa/chickpeas), two chicken, and two goat (the last two with pepper sauce). The total for eight doubles was only 70 TTD, about $10.32 USD — a bargain for our takeout dinner for three! We picked up some drinks from a little market and headed back to the hotel to eat. And this dinner was what dreams are made of: everything was just as good, if not better, than the doubles we’d had in Crown Heights, Brooklyn. The paras were fluffy, pillowy, and addictive. The channa was spiced and super savory. The goat and chicken were tender, well seasoned, and had a nice little kick with the pepper sauce. This was the best first dinner in Trinidad!

And for our dessert, we washed and cut cutlass mangoes, a local variety of mango, that we got along Ariapita Avenue this morning — for free! A really warm, friendly man who owns a smoothie shop saw us admiring the hanging fruit in front of his shop, and so he took a red-netted bag of five cutlass mangoes and just handed them to us as a gift, and thanked us for visiting his country! We ended up sitting on his little deck for a while, chatting with him, and bought a smoothie he made for us to order — cutlass mangoes, watermelon, and dragonfruit. Kaia loved the fact that both of us were distracted chatting with the owner, so she likely got more sips of this smoothie than any other fresh juice/smoothie we’ve ever ordered! She kept chuckling her little cheeky laugh when she knows she’s doing something she’s not really supposed to…

As for the cutlass mango, a variety we’d never heard of before, it is a long, flat, fiberless mango that originates from Trinidad and Tobago. It is distinctive in appearance because it is curved with two pointy tips. The three we cut were perfectly ripe: sweet, tropical, a tiny bit tart, and extremely juicy. I squirted juice in few directions just cutting into these mangoes! The flesh is fiberless, smooth, and almost melts in your mouth. On this trip, this is now the FIFTH mango variety we’ve tried!

The kindness and hospitality we’ve experienced during our short time in Port of Spain have really exceeded any expectations I may have had. The smoothie guy was extremely warm and generous — we got FIVE free mangoes because of him — all because we told him we love mangoes and trying new ones. A ride-app driver who took us to a coffee shop this morning couldn’t find the Michi Coffee Shop where he was supposed to drop us off, so he not only wouldn’t let us get out of the car until he was certain we knew were going, but he even called his coffee loving sister to make sure this area really had a coffee shop around it (to his credit, the coffee shop was a little weird and hidden, as it was in the midst of insurance, furniture, and car repair stores). The lunch spot at the food center had a server who proactively gave me tips about food and local juices since I asked about fruit. And our driver to and from the bird sanctuary gave us tips about local food spots we should check out.

This segment of our Caribbean trip has felt the most interactive with local people and day to day life, as I imagined it would be. But it’s been even better and more enjoyable and fun than I had hoped!

Beautiful birds of the Caribbean – more birding on our last day in Grenada

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Since we’ve arrived in the Caribbean, I’ve tried to keep my eye out for interesting bird species. While I didn’t get to see many unusual birds in Barbados, I was able to see one in St. Lucia, the Antillean crested hummingbird, while on the Tet Paul Nature Trail in Soufriere. And in Grenada, I was lucky to see quite a handful of different birds — just on our hotel property, the Royalton Grenada Resort. The hotel is right on Magazine Beach, so it has a combination of beach coastline, coastal vegetation, and landscaped gardens and man-made lakes that attract all types of birds. A number of the birds I was able to see were either right from our balcony or just sitting around on the property and looking out the window.

On our first day, I got to see a very happy and hyper bananaquit, with its cute bright yellow belly. In front of our hotel, I saw a chipper little Caribbean elaenia, a little flycatcher bird that measures no taller than 14 cm. They have olive-brown backs and grayish white underbellies. The one I saw had a pale yellow wash on its belly. And after dropping Kaia off at the Kids Club for a couple hours this morning (she insisted she wanted to go back; I guess the activities and care providers were that fun and good to her!), I walked to the man-made lake of the property, which has several large trees that attract birds. There, I saw over two dozen cattle egret, which are small white herons that are about 46-56 cm/18-22 in in length and weigh between 270-512 grams/0.6-1.1 lb). One of them caught my eye because it was not only white, but the top of its head, neck, and wings were colored with a pale-pinkish orange hue. I watched them for a while and wondered if this was actually a different bird species from the rest. Later, after Claude correctly identified what bird species these were, it also told me that this specific pinkish-orange winged one was colored as such because it was in its breeding stage of life and “showing” it off. I never knew that a bird’s appearance could change in this way due to breeding stage; it’s actually called “breeding plumage!”

I went back to our room to look up more birding facts and parked myself on the balcony to enjoy my balcony access, enjoy the view of the beach, and savor our last few hours in Grenada. While there and stationary, I saw even more local birds:

Lesser Antillean bullfinch: A small, dark bird endemic to the region. The males are entirely black with a neat patch of rufous-red directly under their chin. I saw a male one! The little red throat was so adorable. The guide I read said that the Grenada subspecies is uniquely smaller than those on neighboring Caribbean islands.

Grey Kingbird: Another flycatcher, grey kingbirds are often seen around towns and mangroves in coastal areas. It is grey above and white below and has a dark mask—a distinctive, but faint, black band extending from the base of the beak through the eye. These little guys are known as “energetic insectivores” and can get quite feisty fighting birds, dogs, and even humans if they get too close to their nests!

Broad-winged hawk: The Royalton has lots of beautiful flamboyant trees, also known as Royal Poinciana or Flame Trees. Given we are here in the summer, this is the peak season to see these trees in all their “flaming” floral glory, as at this time of year, they explode with large, vibrant blooms that range in hue from scarlet red to reddish-bright orange. When I look out our balcony here, I can see these trees directly outside our window, then the beach. As I looked closer into one of the trees this late morning, I noticed a larger bird eating… a small animal that may have been a frog? It was hard to tell given the distance, but whatever animal it was eating definitely had two legs. Based on my description, Claude thinks this bird was a broad-winged hawk, which is the most common bird of prey in Grenada. It actively hunts during the day and is notorious for sitting quietly on a tree branch, hidden by leaves, before dropping down or reaching out to snatch a meal. The broad-winged hawk is a relatively small Buteo (medium to fairly large, wide-ranging raptors; I used to have this misconception that hawks were all very large!), with a body size from 32 to 44 cm (13 to 17 in) in length and weighing 265 to 560 g (9.3 to 19.8 oz). I am not sure why, but it’s always a little engrossing to watch an animal eat another animal. Maybe it’s because of innate human instinct, how satisfying it is to see one type of animal dominate another?

When I saw this hawk eat what I think was a frog, it reminded me of our first full day in Grenada when we dropped Kaia off at the Kids Club in the morning. The caregiver took her out to feed the birds by the water. While Kaia enjoyed this process, she was especially engrossed watching a bird eat the fish. She kept talking about it over and over after we picked her up. It clearly fascinated her and piqued something in her mind, as it was likely the very first time she had watched an animal eat another animal. Even my sweet Kaia Pookie at 4.5 years of age gets this fascination!

Off to the St. George Spice Market, The Carenage, and De La Grenade Nutmeg Garden

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Of the four island countries we are visiting on this trip, I knew the very least about Grenada before this was all booked. And lo and behold, Grenada seems like the most expensive of the four, at least from a tourist transportation standpoint. Many fixed tours/plans are done by the hotel, but they run only on certain days and also require a minimum number of people (usually 8-10) to run. Given we’re in low season, on many days of the week, the tours do not run at all if there is a lack of demand/interest. So the original underwater sculpture snorkel excursion I wanted to do would not run due to a total of zero other people wanting to come. So when I asked the excursions specialist about spice garden tours/farms, she said that their specific fixed tour including several spots on my list would not be running Monday, as in today, our last full day. But, she said, we had the option of spending $375 for a private driver for up to eight hours; that’s a LOT of money! Like in St. Lucia, distances are very deceiving because the actual drive time can be quite long due to road conditions and congestion. Most of Grenada’s major national parks, waterfalls, and larger spice gardens/farms are at least 45 minutes to 1.5 hours away from us. So we had to construct our own Spice Isle excursion today, centered on local spices, foods, and culture and rely on the local ride app.

Our first stop was at St. George Spice Market. No cruise ships were scheduled to arrive in St. George today, so we were lucky and got to experience Monday morning calm at the market. I also read that vendors typically increase prices when cruise ships dock, and they don’t do this otherwise. Either way, I had a ballpark in my head of how much each spice I was interested in should be, so I’d know whether someone was trying to rip me off.

I didn’t have to worry much, though, in terms of vendor interaction. All the vendors I interacted with at the spice market were quite warm and friendly. Some let me haggle a little with them. All of them asked me questions about me, Kaia, how long our trip would be. One of them even kept a close eye on Kaia and kept letting me know where she was hiding, as she predictably ran amok through the aisles of the enclosed section of the spice market. While there, I picked up some spices I had on my shortlist that Grenada is known for, including the obvious, which was whole nutmeg, whole nutmeg wrapped in mace, black peppercorns, dried Grenadian bay leaves (which are actually distinct from the typical Mediterranean bay laurel; it’s more aromatic and complex, offering notes of allspice, menthol, cinnamon, and even citrus!), and ceylon cinnamon (real cinnamon, which is rare, as most places that grow or sell “cinnamon” are really using cassia, which has a stronger, pungent, spicier taste). Ceylon cinnamon is rare, as the majority is grown in Sri Lanka (hence its name given Sri Lanka was a former British colony), with small amounts grown in places like Madagascar, The Seychelles, and the West Indies (this includes Grenada!). So it was interesting to be able to find it at this market. I also did a subtle “test” to see if the cinnamon really was cinnamon by gently pushing down on the sticks to see if they would break. Real Ceylon cinnamon should break, whereas cassia pretending to be cinnamon will be really hard to break.

We also found several vendors selling mangoes, which was also my list of things to find and eat here. We picked out four ripe Ceylon mangoes (also originally from Sri Lanka, brought over by British colonizers from there), the only variety that this one vendor had. I was thrilled to try mango varietal number FOUR on this trip now. Ceylon mangoes are known for their smooth, stringless flesh, and intense, sweet flavor. Some locals even find the mango too sweet, so they will balance the flavor by squeezing fresh lime juice over the flesh while eating. We got four ripe Ceylon mangoes for 5 XCD/$1.85 USD, which to me is quite a good deal!

After we left the market, we had a chocolate tasting at House of Chocolate, bought a bunch of chocolate as gifts and our own at-home eating pleasures, and walked the Carenage, which is the historic horseshoe-shaped natural harbor right in the center of St. George, the capital of Grenada. The Carenage is extremely picturesque, with a large promenade and a working port. There are many brightly colored 18th century colonial buildings with lots of red-tiled roofs. It all looked like the perfect postcard to market Grenada. The promenade, staying true to the Spice Isle nickname of Grenada, is even lined with hanging metal renditions of painted split nutmegs, complete with red mace enveloping them.

We had a quick lunch spot at a local open-air restaurant and then made our final stop of the afternoon, which was at De La Grenade Nutmeg Garden, where we did a private tour of the gardens high up in the hills (benefits of low season!) and got to see and learn a lot about so many varieties of fruit and spices. In preparation for this trip, I had read that nutmeg syrup was very popular here, But to be honest, that did not excite me too much because all I could think of was how potent nutmeg (the seed) was as a spice; a tiny bit goes a really long way. What I didn’t realize before coming on this tour is that when nutmeg syrup is made, the nutmeg’s fleshy outer fruit, known as the pericarp, is used for the syrup, which is much subtler and almost fruity in flavor. The whole idea here is to have zero waste and to use as much of the fruit as possible.

This is a description of how the nutmeg fruit anatomy breaks down by part:

  • The Pericarp: The soft, fleshy outer fruit –> This is what is used for local nutmeg syrup.
  • The Mace: The bright red, lacy, web-like membrane (or aril) that covers the shell.
  • The Shell (Endocarp): The hard, dark seed coat underneath the mace.
  • The Nutmeg: The actual seed inside the shell. –> This needs to be cracked and grated to make the nutmeg ground spice as we know it.

After the garden tour, we did a tasting of every product they offer, ranging from the nutmeg syrups, jellies, and jams, to pepper jellies, hot sauces, rum punches, and local Grenadian liqueur. And one of the most unusual things we tasted was something I’d seen at the market stalls back in Barbados but wasn’t so sure how it would taste: sea moss. It usually appears pink or yellow and is sold dry by the weight. The description for sea moss said that it was high in minerals, like iodine, magnesium, and calcium; helps hydrate the skin and promotes natural glow, and even strengthens hair and nails. It is usually consumed by being blended into flavorless gel that thickens smoothies, teas, and desserts. Our tasting guide served the sea moss for us with a drizzle of nutmeg syrup. It was thick, gelatinous, and a very different experience; I could actually taste bits of the ocean in it! Since it had nutmeg syrup on it, Kaia was quite happy to eat her sample up quickly!

We ended up buying the nutmeg jam, rum punch, and Grenadian liqueur. When planning this trip, I had a feeling that if there was one place we’d bring home souvenirs or consumable goods from that it would be Grenada given its reputation. And it looks like that feeling was right. We had a really well spent, enjoyable day without a private driver, and learned a lot about global food versus what we’d known before. I love learning these bits about food and the world when we travel — we’re still always learning.

Soufriere, St. Lucia, and its treasure: Les Pitons

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I told a colleague originally from St. Lucia that we would be visiting his birthplace, and he said that the one thing he recommended we had to do was to visit Soufriere, a town on the southwest coast of St. Lucia. Soufriere, which has strong French-Creole heritage, is near the famous Pitons, Gros Pitons and Petit Piton, the twin volcanic peaks that appear in almost every St. Lucia tourism ad. The name “Soufriere” comes from French and is named as such for the area’s sulfurous volcanic landscape. “Les Pitons” in French means “mountain peaks” or “pegs.” In English, they are another word for “metal spikes.” Given that St. Lucia changed hands between the British and the French 14 times, seven times to each side, ending with the Brits, you can easily see the British and French influence here. Because of this turbulent colonial tug-of-war, St. Lucia earned the nickname “Helen of the West Indies.” The French influence clearly persists in the island country given the naming of places like Les Pitons and Soufriere itself. But alas, while “Soufriere” pronounced the proper French way would be said “Su-free-AIR,” the British (and lazier) pronunciation of “Su-FRAIR” is more widely said by locals.

So today, we hired a driver to take us down the twisty, windy “hair pin bendy” roads to Soufriere. Everywhere we went, there were mango trees upon mango trees upon MORE mango trees. I just couldn’t get over how many mango trees there were everywhere. I’d never been any place quite like this before! It seemed like they just grew out in the wild and no one person even owned a lot of these trees. Some are so tall and gigantic that you’d never even be able to reach even a tiny fraction of the fruit available! And when there weren’t mango trees, there were bread fruit trees, more bread fruit trees, and endless other fruits like papaya, gooseberry, guavas, wax apples, and the list just goes on forever!

Along the way, we stopped at some really well staked out viewing points of the Pitons and Anse La Ray (Bay of Stingrays), had some delicious local tastes of hand-pounded cassava bread (cherry-raisin and pineapple, the latter of which Chris declared “tastes just like a hot cross bun without the raisins!”), also visited Toraille Waterfall (overrun by cruise ship tourists and was our first time really feeling like we were surrounded by other tourists this trip!), and did a quick tour of the Sulphur Springs. It’s described as the Caribbean’s only “drive-in volcano,” but that’s a little bit of an exaggeration. You can drive up to the edge of the area, and then you have to get out and walk around it. You are also assigned to a guide… who expects a tip at the end (damn U.S. tipping culture invading other societies!). When doing the tour here, of course the smell of rotten eggs was pervasive. As soon as we got out of the car, Kaia yelled out, “It smells!” The area also had lots of fruit trees, including a fruiting mango tree and a fruiting cashew tree. I’d imagine these trees’ fruit would be especially delicious!

For lunch with the help of ChatGPT premium and my targeted prompting, we went to Martha’s Tables just off Sugar Beach in Soufriere, a little quaint open-air restaurant that feels like you are eating on a huge deck of someone’s private home. They had a large, lush backyard filled with so many types of fruits and vegetables that I couldn’t even name them all. When we complimented our server and said we loved the garden (which we have to walk through to reach the restrooms), she went into the kitchen to tell the chef (maybe Martha?), and the chef came out eagerly to give us a mini tour of her garden, filled with guavas, pomegranates, golden apples (also known as June plums), wax apples, and so may pineapple bushes! None of the fruit were ready for picking except the wax apples, so the chef picked off a large bunch of the wax apples, and to my surprise, gave them all to Kaia! Kaia was ecstatic; she kept squealing nonstop every time she came across yet another pineapple bush! The meal and setting were amazing, but this level of warmth and hospitality was truly above and beyond. We left feeling very welcomed and taken care of.

Our next and final stop before heading back up to Rodney Bay was at the Tet Paul Nature Trail, where we’d go for a hike to see more views of the Pitons. The trail was originally developed as a community tourism/eco-tourism project, run and managed by the people of the town just below. Our kind and friendly driver ended up having to watch Kaia nap in the car because she passed out on our drive to the Nature Trail. This ended up benefiting us because if she had come, she would have whined endlessly about the uphill climb and how long it was (45 minutes isn’t that long, but for a four-year-old, that feels like an eternity without sitting…!).

The most interesting thing about this trail was that the entire time, it felt like I was in an open-air compost pile because of all the fallen, rotted fruit (mostly mangoes!) that were everywhere. There was so much fruit, too much fruit, that no one could ever keep up with all this. While the smell stunned me a little in the beginning, after a while, it actually just felt nice, like we were truly immersed in nature. And along with all the beautiful bird songs, it felt very special. The trail also had many other fruit, like the locally beloved wax apples and bread fruit. And we got really lucky when we saw not one, but two different Antillean crested hummingbirds. I have loved birds since I was little, likely due to the influence of my dad who loves birds, and whenever I see a new, colorful species out in the wild, I always get excited. These little hummingbirds are a stunning blue and green irridescent shade with some black, and most notably have a funny tuff of “hair” on their heads. The hair almost looks like a bumpy mohawk! One of them posed for us for what seemed like a very long time, and our guide (as with the volcano, a guide was required here) noted that it is actually very rare to see these hummingbirds; often he will go weeks with multiple tours and not see any. So the fact that we got to see two was very, very special.

When we finally reached the pinnacle of the trail, known as the “Stairway to Heaven,” we got to see the sweeping views of the Gros Piton et Petit Piton we had originally come for. We also got to see different angles of Sugar Beach, Jalousie Bay, and the south coast. After this hike and all the spectacular views we saw today, I can understand why people love St. Lucia and think it’s one of the most beautiful places in the world. Some people like mountains, while others prefer the beach and ocean. And for those who don’t like either, they have rainforests. St. Lucia has it all — and in a single view point and region!

On the 1.75 hours drive back to our hotel, I still admired all the mango trees we passed by every other second. I know that soon, this will not be my view out the window, and so I want to soak it all up as much as possible. Mango. Trees. Everywhere. I was just floored. I will likely be thinking about this for months to come.

Harrison’s Cave, a much-known tourist attraction, and a lesser explored part of Barbados: the northern rugged coast

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Today, we rented a car for the day and explored some further away parts of the island. Barbados is known for its ubiquitous potholes. We got warned by the couple from the snorkeling cruise that we needed to keep a close lookout for them. On their very first day in Barbados, as they were just leaving the airport in their rental car for the day, they hit a pothole so badly that the rim was destroyed to the point of the car being unusable. So they had to pay for the damage and immediately go back and switch the car out. “What a great way to start our vacation!” they laughed. So, we kept their warning in mind on our day with the rental car.

The first highlight of the day was Harrison’s Cave, which is located in the central uplands of Barbados. It’s a crystallized limestone cavern carved by water over hundreds of thousands of years. The cave is known for its massive stalactites hanging from the ceilings like icicles, and its stalagmites, which grow upward from the cave floor. The cave also has beautiful (and incredibly deep!) emerald-green pools and underground waterfalls. It’s 2.3 kilometers (about 1.4 miles) and stays a humid and warm 24.5 C (76 F) year-round. Each year, the tram guide told us, each of the stalactites and stalagmites grow the thickness of a piece of paper per YEAR. It’s one of the features of Barbados that makes the island unique versus other Caribbean islands in that it was originally formed from colliding tectonic plates and thick coral limestone rather than volcanoes. The cave was formed by rainwater that dissolved this limestone. The caves were first documented in historical records in 1795 but were largely unexplored for about 180 years.

The cave was named after Thomas Harrison, a prominent landowner in the early 1700s who also founded a college on the island. Even though we’ve already been here for about four days, it still feels funny to me that the majority of tourist sights here in Barbados are named after a bunch of White people, who were likely either colonizers or slave owners themselves. The majority of Barbados’s population (over 92 percent) is of Black/African descent. Though it is good to read that the local population is recognizing how terrible this is and slowly renaming important historical sites after prominent Afro-Barbadians. One major example is Trafalgar Square, which was officially renamed National Heroes Square.

We did the tram tour, which was a bit simpler given Kaia was of course with us, and she likely would have whined and whinged endlessly if we did the longer (and much more slippery!) walking tour. What I loved the most about the cave were all extremely different shapes and sizes of the stalactites and stalagmites. Some really unique ones were pointed out, like the formation of the Great Hall (it really felt like a great big hall in a grand home), several chandelier-like formations, and stalactites that looked like real drapes and shawls. The guide warned us at the beginning of the tour that touching any of the cave formations is against Barbadian law, and we could be fined as much as $50,000 USD for just a simple touch! I will say that after seeing so many of the cave formations so close up that it was tempting to see what they felt like. They look like they could feel like a cross between jade or pearl!

The second highlight of the day was our stop at Little Bay, Pie Corner, which is located in the rugged northern parish of St. Lucy. It felt very secluded and remote. Other than one other man who was wandering the area, it was just us. There, the waves were a lot more forceful constantly crashing against the large rocks and cliffs, and the water was darker and more treacherous. Swimming is strongly advised against given how strong the currents are in this area. Here, there are also lots of interesting rock formations like sea caves and geyser-like blowholes. We also saw lots of interesting sea shells, and so many tiny little crabs hurriedly scurrying around.

Kaia fell asleep on the way to Little Bay. So instead of waking her up and dragging her out (which would have been unpleasant for all of us), we let her sleep in the car while we spent a little time exploring the little area. I picked a bunch of shells for her and presented them as a gift when we got back to the car. By that time, she had already woken up and was wondering where we went and when we’d come back. As soon as we opened the car door to see her, she had a big smile on her face to see us. I told her she missed out on seeing the teeny tiny crabs crawling around everywhere. The quick video I took of them moving around definitely amused her.

The last highlight was our stop at Tapas Restaurant, which is a short drive from our hotel and was recommended by a local we met and made small talk with at a coffee shop on our first full day. They are known for their open-air restaurant setup with great beach views, as their large selection of local rums from Foursquare Rum Distillery, an internationally awarded maker of rum. Chris tried two rums: one was a Clifton Hall Great House, made in a bourbon cask, and the second was an R.L. Seale 10-year aged in former bourbon casks. I enjoyed a really well made and smooth dark and stormy, likely one of the best versions of it that I’ve had.

Although rum became a thing in Barbados during the 1640s and 1650s as a byproduct of the island’s booming sugar industry, today, the majority of the rums produced on the island are not made with locally grown sugar cane. The island country just isn’t able to produce enough local molasses to meet the global demand for Barbadian rum. Barbados produces significantly less sugar cane today due to global market shifts making the industry unprofitable. The country is now restructuring its traditional sugar industry by transitioning toward rum production, specialty sugar, renewable energy, and agricultural research.

Despite its downward shift of sugar production, Barbados still continues to be recognized globally as the birthplace of rum, still operating historical sites like Foursquare Rum Distillery, Mount Gay Rum Distillery, and St. Nicholas Abbey. The Geographical Indication (GI) Rules state that every stage of production — distillation, aging, blending, and bottling — must take place entirely on the island using limestone filtered water. The laws intentionally do not restrict the origin of raw sugarcane or molasses. We did pass by many fields of sugarcane, but it still didn’t seem like it could possibly be enough given how much rum is actually still produced here.

It was a a beautiful and tasty way to end our time in Barbados, with lots of culture and learning along the way. Tomorrow, we are off to St. Lucia for another cultural experience!

On a catamaran in Barbados to see sea turtles, shipwreck, and endless colorful fish

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As soon as I read that Barbados was known for sea turtles, and there were near-guaranteed chances to see them when snorkeling, I told Chris we had to do a catamaran tour here. The last time we did a snorkeling excursion, it was in Cebu, the Phillippines, on New Year’s Day this year. We were spoiled given the exchange rate, and so we had a private boat for just the three of us. Here in Barbados, tourism (especially from Westerners) is massive, and of course they are going to capitalize on that. No one’s going to fault them for that! If you want to do a private charter for a day, it will cost close to a thousand USD! So we went with the 36-person max five-hour catamaran tour, which takes you snorkeling at two stops in Carlisle Bay. It includes a Bajan-style lunch and swimming stop near Holetown, and then we’re back to our starting point in Bridgetown.

It feels luxurious that this is the third time we are going snorkeling this year (and the fourth time in my life, after the Great Barrier Reef / Cairns, Queensland, in December 2014), but if you’re only going to be here once, you might as well dive in (literally). While one of my lifelong dreams has been to swim with dolphins, I have always wanted to see sea turtles up close, and what better way than to see them in their natural habitat in the ocean? I love wildlife, and the ocean, while terrifying to me given I have a fear of deep water and scary things that could potentially kill me (okay, the last part is a lesser fear, but you get it), has always been one of the most beautiful sights for me. I still remember my very first time snorkeling in the Great Barrier Reef and how surreal the coral reef was to see, and being rendered speechless by exactly how many colors are under the sea. That feeling of being in the water and seeing it all just feels magical to me.

In Carlisle Bay, there are two types of sea turtles that all catamaran cruises say you have a 98 percent chance of seeing: green(back) turtles and hawksbill turtles. Green turtles can grow up to 1.2 meters (just shy of four feet) in shell diameter and weigh over 180 kilograms (about 400 lb). These little guys eat seagrass and algae, and the greens of their diet colors their fat and cartilage, giving them their name. Hawksbill turtles, on the other hand, have shells that can be about 0.8 meters (three feet) in diameter and weigh between 45 to 80 kilograms (100-177 lb). Hawksbill turtles eat sea sponges, giving them the name “spongivores.” This diet helps coral reefs, as these turtles eat aggressive sponges that then prevent the overgrowth of coral colonies, contributing to a healthy coral reef system. Shape-wise, they have narrow, bird-like curved beaks and serrated, patterned shells. In Barbados, sea turtles are protected by law, and they have one of the largest nesting populations of this endangered species in the Caribbean. I spoke with a couple yesterday at the resort we visited, who said that just a few days before, they actually saw a sea turtle come up to their shore to lay their eggs — what a treat to be able to see that in real time!

Our cruise was really, really well run: the staff were extremely warm, friendly, hospitable, knowledgable, and hands-on. When we had our two snorkel stops, they had two crew members act as guides/helpers in the water to show us where to look for wildlife. And because Kaia was the youngest person on the boat, one of those two guys was so kind that he stayed with her (and a floatie) the entire time, which allowed Chris and me to enjoy swimming and snorkeling with more ease and on our own. We brought our own life jacket fitted for her, which she wore the whole time in the water. The cruise offered her a child-sized snorkel set, but she refused to wear it (she was probably still hating it from when we tried to get her to wear one in Cebu, and well, that one was likely malfunctioning as ours did). And when they said we were guaranteed to see sea turtles, they were not joking: during our first snorkel stop, we saw two green turtles on the very bottom of the ocean floor, which was fully clear and just endless white sand in that area. The water was extremely clear, and we could see both of the green turtles waddling around the ocean floor separately as though time did not matter.

For a while, I didn’t even really move while I was watching each of the sea turtles walk around on the ocean floor. It just felt so captivating, watching them move in slow-motion, one or two legs moving at a time. They looked so graceful, so purposeful, with fluid and effortless strides. Given that sea turtles evolved over 100 million years ago and outlived dinosaurs, I think it’s pretty clear they live steady, purposeful lives, and their swimming pace reminds all of us to slow down a little bit and to really enjoy the moment. I could probably spend hours just staring at these gentle little giants swim and waddle across the ocean floor.

While reading about sea turtles, I read this quote that stayed with me: “Watching a sea turtle swim is knowing they are following an incredible, invisible roadmap. They use the Earth’s magnetic field—an innate ability called magnetoreception—to navigate thousands of miles across open oceans to feed and return to the exact beaches where they were born.” I rely so heavily on Google Maps for everything, whether it’s trying to see how long it will take me to get from point A to point B, or just identifying where a restaurant is. I guess I will never be as intelligent as a sea turtle. The fact that sea turtles are so smart and can do this, especially the part about returning to the exact beaches where they were born, is mind-blowing.

During the second snorkel stop, we saw lots more shipwreck, coral reef growing on top of said shipwreck, and endless colorful fish. Many of them are likely the same or related to the colorful fish we saw in Roatan and Cebu, except this time, I definitely know I saw a handful of different parrot fish that were even more than all the colors of the rainbow. I saw lots of scorpion-like fish, endless varieties of angelfish, sergeant majors (just like in Roatan!), and many schools of blue tang fish, which were like dark blue florescent fish with rounded flat bodies and cute little tails. We also got to see THE fish in Barbados, which are the flying fish (very popular for eating, as well. We had these, breaded and fried, at the Trini rum and roti shop we ate at during our first full day in Barbados). They really do “fly” out of water in packs. If a crew member hadn’t pointed them out to us, I barely would have noticed them. They almost looked like little darts coming out of the water in very specific semi-circle patterns. And because of their color, they blend into the water and you need to really look for them.

We also got warned several times to stay away from a certain area of coral, where it got shallower and there was plenty of fire coral. After my Roatan incident of getting my butt burned by what appeared to be dead coral, I will heed those warnings and stay TF away.

Kaia loved being on the boat. She enjoyed being doted on by crew members, being in the water, and fighting over foam noodles with her mama (i did not quite enjoy this, but, well…). She enjoyed the outing so much that she actually ended up napping out on the catamaran (on Chris)! Pookster even attracted the attention of a younger couple just finishing up med school who are planning to have kids soon. They kept raving about how cute and good she was being (even though she had several tantrums and they witnessed first hand her fight with me in the water). We told her the next time we’re out in open water again, she needs to try to put her head in the water so she can actually see the fish and the sea animals. I was bummed she didn’t get to see the sea turtles, as I know for a fact she would have loved them. She’s an animal lover like me after all, so I know she’d get a kick out of seeing these beautiful, graceful gentle giants. I guess there is always next time.

Cleaning out the fridge before travel

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Some things I always do before we leave on a trip are 1) clean out and use up all produce / perishables in the fridge/on the counter (NO WASTE), 2) clean all sinks, toilets, and bathroom/kitchen floors before we leave (to ensure I am coming home to a clean slate), and 3) run a load of laundry so that we don’t have dirty clothes on top of more dirty clothes from travel to do when we come back home. That also means clearing all our used bath and kitchen towels and ensuring all clean ones are on the racks when we get home. It’s another extra step, but it also means that when we get home, things are calmer and I don’t have to think about refreshing anything — it’s already done! I also make sure all the trash bins are cleared out and lined with new plastic bags — no one wants rotting trash in their house while they’re gone!

One thing that is slightly different this time when preparing to be away for about two weeks is that Chris decided it would be a good idea to have about a dozen Ataulfo mangoes and a pineapple our last week in town. All the mangoes started ripening at the same time, along with a very, very ready pineapple, so I ended up peeling and cutting nine mangoes and an entire pineapple today, with three more mangoes, a kiwi, and a nectarine to go for cutting tomorrow! Whatever we do not eat (which will be the majority!) will go into a freezer-safe ziplock bag into the freezer. And that fruit will inevitably get thrown into smoothies, shakes, or popsicles for Pookie when we get back home. I usually tell Chris he has to be the fruit manager who checks on ripening fruit, but before family trips, I end up being the ultimate fruit manager doing all the manual work!