Other than cuisine and learning about new cultures, a big highlight of traveling for us is seeing unique sights that we don’t see every day here at home. Off the top of my head, some of the most quirky and memorable sights we have seen were the World’s Largest Pistachio in New Mexico, the bubble gum wall at Pike Place Market in Seattle (yes, it was definitely gross), the Canadian Potato Museum in Prince Edward Island, and the Catacombs in Paris. We can add another site to that quirky list: Helga’s Folly, the “anti hotel” in Kandy!

While researching our visit to Kandy, I came across this recommendation as a place to either have a quick snack or a meal in a “unique” setting. While you can certainly book accommodation here, I think the real charm is in being in the hotel for a bit to observe all the unique artwork and decor. Helga’s Folly is considered an “art nouveau” boutique hotel, outfitted in a mix of traditional Sri Lankan and Dutch decor and furniture, with rooms covered from floor to ceiling in hand-painted murals, glass and tile mosaics, and newspaper and magazine clippings. No inch of the place is spared of some eccentric jungle, ghost, or godly mural, or some sort of glass or ceramic decor. There are skulls and skeletons every which way you turn. Massive candelabras covered in what looks like years and years’ worth of wax are strategically positioned every ten or so feet you walk.

This hotel was originally a mansion owned by the famous De Silva family. Edmond Frederick Lorenz De Silva was a popular Sri Lankan politician who was the former Sri Lankan ambassador in Paris. Once his daughter Helga inherited the property, she converted it into a hotel and renamed it “Helga’s Folly.” She spent a lot of time hand painting and decorating the entire place herself as a form of therapy to move on from the suicide of her first husband, and the unhappy marriage to her second. It is known to be one of Kandy’s very first hotels. Many famous people have stayed there, including Vivien Leigh and Mahatma Gandhi (!), who was apparently a family friend of the De Silvas.

As soon as we entered, I knew this place would be creepy. There was no one at the front desk, and most of the lights were either dim or off completely. We stopped by as a respite from the pouring rain (we were traveling during monsoon season, after all), and we had tea, juice, an omelet (which was originally meant for Pookster, but she refused it), homemade bread rolls, and some really delicious and crunchy ginger snaps. The tea was served in a very grand, silver, antique rotating teapot, which I had never seen before, but was completely amused by when using it. It was a nice rest from the rain, and a good time to let Pookster roam around relatively freely.

But we made the mistake of accidentally leaving behind her baby drinking cup, so the next day, we had to come back to retrieve it. We called to ensure the cup was still there and had an Uber driver take us back up the hill. I went into the hotel myself to fetch the cup. But this time, literally no one was in there. No sounds could be heard. Every single light was off, though the front door was wide open. I walked up the stairs to the dining area, where I knew the kitchen was by, and called out about five times. I waited at least two minutes before anyone responded and came out to greet me, but that two minutes felt like an eternity, surrounded by all these creepy skeletons, black walls with ghoulish murals, and musty newspaper clippings from the 80s and 90s. I could feel myself getting a slight chill over my body, despite the fact that it was so hot and humid outside. When someone came out with a smile and presented the cup back to me, I immediately took it, thanked him, and dashed out.

It is no wonder that place is said to be haunted or possessed. I would NOT be comfortable sleeping overnight there for many, many reasons. I do hope it survives, as it’s definitely very kitschy and has an interesting story, but eeeek.

Everywhere we went in India and Sri Lanka, people probably stared at us and wondered about us as a family: a mixed Indian-Chinese/Vietnamese couple with a mixed race child. We got asked a few times about our backgrounds, and they always thought it was interesting that we were a mixed race family. One night, when I was in a sari shop trying to ask if they sold toddler sized lehengas, two workers were eager to help me while I pushed Kaia around in the stroller. One of them asked me about my background, then asked about my husband’s. When I let them know, he marveled and kept repeating over and over again, “Wow! This child is Indian, Chinese, AND Vietnamese, living in America! WOW!” It was as though I brought in a tiny celebrity into their fancy sari shop, and the rest of the workers were oogling over Kaia’s “exotic” background.

There are always going to be people who marry “into” their race. People are comfortable with what they are comfortable with, and I get it: it’s nice and easy to not have to explain every single tradition custom or food or flavor, or have to translate everything from one’s mother/father tongue. But as the world becomes ever more connected, and as people continue getting more educated and intermingling, it’s inevitable that there will continue to be more and more mixed race babies and people, and those mixed race people will likely mix even further and create the most interesting and unique “mutts” we have yet to know. As naive as it may sound, maybe that could potentially be a way to combat prejudice and racism: if there are more people with more varied backgrounds roaming this land and earth, perhaps people will realize that it’s more “normal” and discriminate less. Then, people like Kaia Pookie won’t be so “interesting” or “unique” or “exotic,” and she will eventually be just like the rest of the world of mutts.

Sri Lanka is an island nation of over 22 million people, yet somehow, until very recently, I knew very little about the cuisine. I think if the average person were asked what Sri Lankan cuisine was, they’d have no idea how to even respond, which is so sad considering how rich, varied, and scrumptious it is. I knew about some of its overlaps with south Indian cuisine, in the form of hoppers, rotis, and parathas, but I knew nothing else prior to this trip. Like in a lot of cultures around the world, Lankan cuisine is one of those that can be frustrating because a lot of what native Sri Lankan people love about specific dishes… is specific to the recipes/methods their mothers, grandmothers, and family members have. While sambal may be a common accompaniment to meals in Sri Lanka, the flavor profile can vary greatly from one restaurant to another, one household to another.

One of the places that is especially renowned within Sri Lanka for its cuisine is Jaffna, the capital city of the Northern Province of the country. It’s where the complex and delicious red jaffna curry that came with our crab at Mayura Hotel originates from. And given its coastal location, Jaffna is famous for fresh seafood mixed with lots of aromatic spices, plus tons and tons of freshly grated coconut and coconut milk. Although we didn’t have a chance to visit Jaffna, having that crab curry at Mayura Hotel was definitely a tasty hint of what we could expect on a future trip there.

One place we had a late lunch at during our last full day in Colombo was Culture Colombo, a relatively new, modern Sri Lankan restaurant that attempts to showcase multiple regional cuisines under a single roof. One of the most memorable dishes of our entire trip was another crab curry we had here, which was called kakuluwo Negombo kramayata. The description read: freshly caught crab (350g) marinated and slow cooked according to a unique recipe of an authentic household in Negombo. Negombo is a city that is about a 6.5-hour train ride north of Colombo. It’s also a popular beach destination that is known for super fresh crabs. The Negombo crab curry we had at Culture Colombo was just as delicious, if not more, as the jaffna crab curry at Mayura hotel. This was really light, silky, and extremely aromatic. It almost has a floraly, grassy flavor at the end. I could also tell that it was lightly spiced with cinnamon, which was a slightly sweet touch. Chris said he could just drink this curry broth/soup endlessly and not even eat the crab!

Sri Lankan cuisine is lesser known and under appreciated. Although many of the flavors overlap with parts of India, it’s clearly its own cuisine. I hope we will have more opportunities in the future to taste more of what this beautiful country has to offer for our tummies.

In Kerala, I was definitely a spectacle everywhere we went. I know that it wasn’t just the fact that we were pushing around a stroller (very rare to see anyone pushing any baby on a stroller either in India or in Sri Lanka), or that I was a Chinese-Vietnamese woman walking around with a brown-skinned, seemingly Indian man with a baby… or even the fact that people would quickly come to the conclusion that because of the two people pushing the stroller around, that this baby was a MIXED “Chindian” baby – a very unique and interesting “thing” to look at!

I got stared at a lot. And it was definitely because in their eyes, and in their country, in a sea of Indian people everywhere, I was a minority, and so because of that, I stood out. As Chris always likes to say: Indians are the biggest “starers” in the world: they stare with little discretion and have zero desire to hide the fact that they like to stare. They likely think there’s absolutely nothing wrong with staring. So everywhere we went, people stared at me, turning their heads, their eyes constantly lingering on me and every move I made. On our first trip to India, I tried my best to be modest and cover my back and shoulders for the most part with a shawl, but it got really sweaty and disgusting after a while, so I eventually just abandoned it. I tried it maybe once or twice on this trip and finally just threw in the towel and gave up. Regardless of whether my shoulders were bare or not, people were still going to stare at me and think I was some interesting object. So what was the point of trying to be modest and cover up, anyway? After the first couple days, I got over it. But people still insisted on peering into the stroller to see my little Pookster’s face. Others got protective over her, especially when the sun would occasionally get into her face, and start waving at us to cover our baby and prevent the sun from shining directly on her.

But as soon as we landed in Colombo, all of that changed. Suddenly, I realized that no one was really staring at me anymore, and that if anyone was looking at us, they did it very discreetly, or they focused solely on my Pookster. So the next time anyone tries to make the statement that Sri Lankans are “basically just Indian,” my reply back will quickly be, “Well, no, they’re a totally different country and ethnicity. And also, Indians have ‘staring’ ingrained in their culture, whereas Lankans actually are able to exercise some discretion.”

We were very fortunate to have a Saturday in Colombo because that’s the only day of the week when the Good Market Lanka is open. Good Market Lanka is an outdoor market that happens every Saturday in the city of Colombo that is made up of different independent and local social enterprises, artisans, and businesses that are environmentally friendly, organic, and sustainable. The market has over 120 vendors and operates as a non-profit with a brick and mortar shop that is open every day, though each Saturday, anywhere from 70-80 vendors set up stalls in the nuga tree car park at the Colombo Racecourse to showcase and sell their goods. After breakfast at the hotel this morning, we went to the Good Market to see what this “good market” was all about. It was definitely very modern, laid out like a lot of the farmers markets you see in Manhattan or New York, with similar fun signs and awnings to let you know what each offers. But when you take a look at exactly what goods and foods the vendors are offering, you quickly realize that this is anything BUT what you’d find back in the U.S.

We had tastings drizzled directly on our fingers of local fresh and aged Sri Lankan honeys, which had a level of richness and complexity we’d never quite tasted before. We stopped by a hopper stall to pick up a sweet honey version of a hopper, which was made to order in the typical rounded bottom hopper pan and drizzled with honey, served on a small banana leaf. We purchased a cup of avocado “juice,” which was different for us; we’re mostly used to having avocado in a smoothie form, mixed with ice cream, ice, sugar, and milk, and so having it pure and blended with just water and a bit of sugar was unique. I picked up a pair of hand painted, beaded earrings made of locally sourced wood for just 300 LKR (!). We also tried buffalo curd, purchased and devoured Sri Lankan wattalapam, a unique and spongy coconut custard pudding made of coconut, jaggery, sri kaya, eggs, and spices; and a delicious and refreshing hibiscus lemonade. We discovered a treacle local to Sri Lanka that is actually made from toddy palm, which was also new to us; treacle, as I’d previously understood it, is a sweetener that is common in the U.K. and Australia that is like a molasses, made from uncrystallized syrup derived from cane sugar. So we realized while at this market that there’s a whole different meaning for “treacle” here in terms of what it’s actually made of! We stopped by an organic produce vendor who was selling Alphonso (!) mangoes and learned that a number of varieties of mangoes that are native to India also grow here in Sri Lanka. We purchased one Alphonso and had the vendor cut it for us so we could eat on the spot; I figured this would be our last time eating a South Asian mango on this trip, so why not just get it and eat it straight away? All the vendors were so welcoming and friendly. They were eager to explain their products to us, how they were produced, and everyone spoke amazing English, so we didn’t have any issues understanding their meaning.

And if that all was not enough, we also stopped by Jack Mania, a vendor selling all jackfruit based products, which got me really excited because I just love jackfruit SO much! We sampled their jackfruit jam, made solely of jackfruit, lime juice, and sugar. There was no filler in here at all, and so of course, we purchased a jar! And what I noted above is just what we tasted and interacted with directly. There were endless other vendors selling delicious snacks, foods, and desserts, and beautifully hand crafted items. We just didn’t have enough time (or space in our bellies) to take it in and eat it all.

A place like Good Market Lanka is the kind of place where, if we were local, we’d love to come back to regularly to try and sample everything. They even had some live entertainment in the form of a drummer giving semi-lessons to young kids, as well as sinks in the back area where you could wash and clean yourself after indulging in all the delicious food there. It was sad to leave, as I would have loved to have tried many of the other foods there, but time is always limited while traveling. In the end, we were happy to be able to spend a couple hours on our last morning here before leaving to go back home.

The hotel staff at all the hotels during this trip absolutely adored and doted on Kaia every time they saw her. They chased her around, played endless games of poking and peekaboo, and followed her around everywhere to ensure she didn’t completely wreck havoc or run into anything dangerous. I’ll be honest at times that I kind of just let them run with it. Occasionally, Chris gave me a look that said, “What are you doing? Go after her!” but I thought, meh! What could go wrong?

When you’re on vacation with your young child, you always have to be on high alert to ensure they are safe and well, so you can never really let your guard down. This is especially the case with a rambunctious little toddler like Kaia, who has recently started walking and wants very much to assert her independence. But while at all the hotels we stayed at on this trip, I figured that I’d just let them indulge Kaia, and she’d obviously be safe. This was why at certain times, for a few minutes at a time max, I’d actually just let Kaia go off with a hotel manager or even place her directly in the arms of a security worker while loading up a car for a day trip. There’s no harm in that, right? And I knew she’d be safe with them. But really, I also did this because I knew that the hotel staff would be okay with it and not be taken aback by it. I would absolutely never do something like place my baby in the arms of a security staff worker at a U.S. hotel because they’d probably refuse or think I was totally mad. But that’s the level of hospitality you get when traveling in Asia: people in general are more family oriented, so they understand the importance of keeping a child safe, but they also have a far higher level of dignity in their day to day job that you just don’t see as much of here in the U.S.

Sri Lanka is a unique island country that oftentimes lives in the shadow of its larger neighbor India. In terms of cuisine, a lot of people like to make blanket statements that Sri Lanka’s food is basically just a version of Indian food. That is… sort of true, but not quite. There is a lot of overlap with southern Indian cuisine, in the form of dosas, hoppers (called appam in India) and rotis/parathas/flat breads/rice. There are definitely common elements, like the prevalence of different rices, rotis/flat breads, and curries, but they are definitely different. Sri Lankan food is unique in that the food is not (overall) especially hot (like it can get in certain parts of India), but it’s extremely “in your face” with its flavors. Just on our first day, we had a number of different sambals/sambols (a spicy coconut one called pol sambol, a caramelized onion one called seeni sambol, and a spicy chili one known as lunu miris!); different types of vegetable curry with complex flavor profiles; a Jaffna curry with the crab we had at Mayura hotel; kiri hodi, a thin coconut curry that you can dip hoppers into. The variety of sambals is more akin to the variety and types we enjoyed while in Indonesia.

Sri Lankan food’s base is definitely rice, coconut, and local fruits and vegetables. Similar to East Asian cuisine, Sri Lankan food, unlike Indian food, uses pandan leaves in its curries and sauces, which I found both refreshing and delicious. Sri Lankans also love using vegetables in pickles and quick curries and stir fries; I noticed morning glory (or kong qing cai, also known as water spinach), a common East Asian leafy green vegetable with hollow, crunchy stems) being sold ubiquitously all over Central Market’s produce stalls. Sri Lankan food also uses another unique component in a lot of its dishes: Maldive fish. I later found out that this is not actually fish from the Maldives, but bonito tuna that’s been boiled and dried in the sun, then shredded. It’s added to various dishes to add a level of savoriness to each bite. I saw endless piles and bins of dried Maldive fish all over the markets and streets of Kandy.

Unfortunately, outside of Sri Lanka and Staten Island in New York, which has the largest Sri Lankan population outside of Sri Lanka, it’s nearly impossible for us to find Sri Lankan food and groceries. I did befriend someone on Instagram who happened to be married to a Lankan, and she told me that Melbourne, Australia, actually has a suburb where you can easily find not only Sri Lankan restaurants, but food and grocery. This got me excited for our next trip back to Melbourne and further exploring the delicious world of Lankan flavor!

During our time in Sri Lanka, we decided to do one side trip from Colombo and chose Kandy. Kandy is the former capital of Sri Lanka when the island country was ruled over by a monarchy. Today, it is the capital of the Central Province of the country and one of the country’s most populous cities. It is considered a cultural capital of Sri Lanka, given its rich history and being home to the Temple of the Tooth Relic, which is known as one of the most sacred places for Buddhist worship in the world. Kandy is a popular destination for domestic travelers seeking a holiday, as it is in the midst of a number of tropical plantations, especially tea. Given the higher elevation of Kandy at over 1,500 feet, the area surrounding Kandy in the Central Province is very popular for growing tea.

When we arrived, it certainly felt like an interesting mix of chaotic urban hustle and tranquil, lush flora. The city encircles itself around the main sprawling square area, which is hustling and bustling, and the huge artificial lake, which is home to a number of interesting fauna, including various species of large birds and the notable Asian water monitor, which is one of the largest lizards in the world. When I first saw this animal, I got a bit spooked and didn’t know what it was. Initially, it seemed like an alligator or crocodile, but not quite. We speculated that it must be in the lizard family based on its outward appearance. We actually got to see this peculiar creature our first morning in Kandy while walking around the lake: this massive lizard was eating its breakfast: a big, fat fish, slowly being sucked down its throat in huge gulps!

One of the main sights I was eager to visit while in Kandy was the Central Market: it’s known as the locals’ market for everything from clothes, household items, jewelry, trinkets, souvenirs, to fresh produce. Of course, we were not interested in the clothes or household items, but the produce! I especially had my eyes (and stomach) set on a few types of fruit: durian, jackfruit, rambutans, mangosteen, and mango. When we were in India, we knew that durian was not a fruit that was either native or liked, and we were told that we had just passed peak jackfruit season there, so we unfortunately did not see any jackfruit being sold anywhere. But on our first visit to the Central Market, we immediately found one single vendor selling durian, and we zeroed in on him immediately and asked how much it would cost. He smiled and replied that it would be 400 LKR per kilo; that’s $1.33 per 2.2 pounds!! We agreed, but only if he’d cut it for us, which he happily had one of his people do. We picked out one durian, and they weighed it out: in total, it would cost us 1,400 LKR, which is the equivalent of $4.50 USD — what a total steal for us! I don’t know what I was initially more excited about — the fact that we found a fragrant, ripe durian, or how cheap it was! We parked the stroller and literally just stood there, eating durian with a random plastic fork I found in the diaper bag and our bare hands. The surrounding vendors found this so, so comical: they all watched us intently, with each bite we took, and kept smiling at us. As for the durian itself: it is likely one of the very, very best durians we’d eaten in a long time. It was perfectly ripe, extremely creamy, sweet, custardy, and complex tasting. We kept marveling how good the durian was (Kaia took one bite and refused; I guess she doesn’t have the same taste buds as back in the autumn, when she willingly ate Malaysian durian…). And after the first cut, we erroneously thought we were done, but no! The vendor cut the NEXT part of the durian to reveal two more massive hunks of durian for us to gorge on! That was pretty much our dinner on our first evening in Kandy!

When we were just about to leave, I realized that they had king coconuts, the unique orange-hued coconuts that are native to Sri Lanka. These king coconuts are famous for their special water and are used for drinking almost exclusively, especially since they don’t yield much coconut flesh. So, I asked for one to cut open and drink. It cost just 150 LKR, and we had king coconut juice for the very first time. The juice was sweet, but sweet in a very different way than the coconut water that comes from green coconuts. Oddly enough, it also felt a bit lighter. The king coconut water had this tartness at the end that was unique. When I asked if they could cut the coconut open after we were done drinking, they hacked it open with a small machete to reveal a small amount of white jelly. Well, even the coconut FLESH is different on a king coconut than a green coconut! I had no idea! It was just a small amount of flesh, but all three of us, even Pookster, relished it.

We told the fruit vendors that we’d come back to have more fruit, and we made well on our promise. The next day, we came back and asked for a few kilos of jackfruit, which was also ripe, sweet, and so satisfying. They indulged Kaia with two free bananas, which she happily ate (she refused the jackfruit, sadly), and also cut open a mangosteen for us to eat (also super juicy, sweet, and yummy). We also had some free rambutans, but unfortunately, we just couldn’t eat more fruit at that point to buy more; we were so stuffed!

We also visited the Embilmeegama tea factory for a free tour and tasting. It’s located just outside of Kandy, so we had an Uber driver take us there (someone who was very eager to make a commission, so he lied and told us he was driving us to the larger version… which was a completely different tea factory altogether, made and marketed for tourists, and had no relation to Embilmeegama. When I walked into the facility he drove us to and asked if they were Embilmeegama, they said they were not, but a “much better place for tea.” Well, I said thanks, but no thanks! Then, I went back to the car, told the driver this was not right and that he had to take us to the spot we originally requested). When we entered the actual Embilmeegama tea factory, a woman dressed in a sari walked up to us and greeted us in English. She took us on a quick tour of the factory. I’ll be honest and say that this is real tea production without even the slightest bit of sugar coating or glorification. This is a real, working tea factory that is producing tea for real human consumption. They talk through the production process while there are real workers right there in front of you working the machines, manually sorting through tea leaves, and enduring the extremely hot, dusty conditions inside. The guide noted that after sorting, the “inferior” tea leaves and dust were used in tea and tea bags for the locals, while the vast majority is exported to western and Middle Eastern countries (read: rich countries. Ouch. Again as I said: no sugar coating here. They say it just like it is). As educational as the process was, it actually made me feel sad that there are real people who have to endure these dark, hot, dusty conditions every single day; this is a grueling, truly thankless job. I have been a tea drinker for most of my life and a tea lover since college, yet like so many things we consume, I’m totally removed from this arduous and ugly process of tea production. I’m in a privileged position: I just get the fun, delicious part — enjoying the actual drink. It definitely leaves me with conflicting feelings.

When we did the tea tasting, which was held on the top floor of the building in a massive, open, well appointed and inviting room, I ended up purchasing three items: one box of fancy tea bags for my friend (tea bags that are actually filled with real tea leaves, not dust as tea bags are usually stuffed with), one box of Silver Tips Ceylon tea, often consumed as a health tonic as opposed to a “tea” (and… priced as such, as it was extremely expensive by any standard of currency, and likely one of the most expensive teas I’ve ever purchased!), and one box of luxury broken orange pekoe fannings, extra special (BOPF, ES), which is only sold directly in the factory and not exported at all. I was a bit hesitant when I heard how expensive the latter two teas were, but I figured: when am I going to be back here or in Sri Lanka in general to buy these? Plus, I knew if I were to attempt to source the equivalents back home, they’d likely be even more expensive. Tea is obviously a commodity, but it’s also an experience, and so I wanted to bring this experience back home with me.

I wasn’t quite aware of this when I was young, but looking back, I recognize now that I lived a very delicious and privileged foodie childhood. When we would have family dinners out several times a year with my cousins, aunt, uncle, and grandma, inevitably, we’d always eat at a family favorite Cantonese Chinese restaurant, and there would always, always be crab or lobster on the table. Most of the time when this was ordered, it would be fried or sautéed Cantonese style in ginger and scallion or with garlic, but regardless, the seafood was always extremely fresh, sweet, and sumptuous. It’s funny to think that I actually ate crab more regularly as a growing child than I do now as an adult. Then, I didn’t have to think about paying for it (the glories of being a child and not having to worry about paying for anything because an adult would always take care of the bill), and I had no concept then of things that were “cheap” or “expensive” to buy and eat. Plus for a short time as a younger child, my mom did the generous deed of shelling all the lobster and crab for me. When I got to a certain age, she (reasonably) insisted I had to do it myself, which I did most of the time unless I was too lazy to shell it and would just skip it altogether (the audacity to turn down crab!!).

Since then, I’ve had many opportunities to eat crab and lobster, whether it’s different varieties, different preparations, and in different countries (and, well, pay for it with my own money, for better or worse, ha). Sri Lanka is known for many things: pristine beaches, its lush, green landscape and incredible biodiversity, Ceylon tea, cinnamon, hoppers, curry, and CRAB. So I knew when we finally came, we needed to have crab in at least one meal, if not more ideally.

We arrived yesterday afternoon in Colombo, the capital of Sri Lanka, on a short flight from Kochi. After we arrived at the hotel and settled in, we took a quick Uber ride to our first stop: Mayura Hotel. So, this isn’t what it sounds like, as it’s common in Lanka to call restaurants “hotels.” Mayura Hotel is a very local restaurant in the Pettah neighborhood of Colombo. It’s a small hole-in-the-wall with just a handful of tables (yeah, we definitely weren’t going to bother even trying to ask for a high chair here!). They serve one thing and one thing only: rice and curry, with your choice of omelet, chicken, fish, prawn, mutton, or crab to come with it. The prices range from 450 LKR to 1700 LKR. Surprisingly, the crab wasn’t even the most expensive option at 1700 LKR – that was the mutton meal! So for 1450 LKR, or about $4.65 USD, you could get a full crab and curry meal here! WHAT A STEAL!

When you are seated at Mayura, a friendly old man comes and lays a large banana leaf in front of each diner while asking which meal option you’d like. We opted for the fish meal and (duh) the crab meal. Once he’s collected the order, he comes back with several small pots, one at a time, and a big ladle. Then, he ladles different components onto your banana leaf: first, the rice, then two types of vegetable curry (that day, I think they were a mix of green beans, potato, pumpkin, and okra), and finally a thick, creamy, Lankan style dal called parippu. And as the main part of your lunch meal, he brings over a fried fish and a metal plate with a medium sized, deep red color crab on top, with a small metal bowl of curry. The curry that is served with the crab is called jaffna curry: Jaffna is the capital city of the Northern Province of Sri Lanka, and is also famous for its curry of the same name. The curry mix consists of red chili, coriander, cumin, fennel, turmeric, fenugreek, black pepper, cinnamon, cloves, curry leaves, and (what really makes it different than Indian curries) pandan! The curry was really addictive: Chris said that he actually enjoyed this curry more than the crab itself! He didn’t want to bother with cracking the crab himself, especially since a) he doesn’t like cracking crab and b) he was holding Kaia for most of our meal here, so he insisted I eat the majority of the crab because I love it so much. He doesn’t love crab as much as I do. What a good, thoughtful husband.

We’d already eaten a number of delicious meals while in Kerala, but this meal was truly delicious in every sense of the word and an amazing first meal in Sri Lanka. Every component of this meal was scrumptious, from the two vegetable curries, each with a different and tasty, complex sauce, to the parippu (so creamy and rich, and different than the average Indian style dal!) to the crab and fish. The little fried fish we got was really meaty, with a nice crisp skin that Kaia loved and ate a lot of. As for the crab – wow. While the legs were quite a lot of work and didn’t yield too much meat, the really meaty part was the base of the body. Crab can be very frustrating: you have to crack (with your teeth here – no crackers at this place!), then pick at them for what feels like forever in order to get, at times what seems like, a tiny smidgen of food to eat. But when I finally started peeling and attacking the body of the crab, that’s when I realized where all the good stuff was. While all the manual labor involved will likely not yield the mountain of crab meat I may think I deserve, this crab was worth the effort: soft, silky, very sweet, and a little spicy. With shellfish, I like to do all the work up front so that I can enjoy all my rewards at the end. So when I finally got a big mouthfuls’ worth of crab meat, I dunked it into the Jaffna curry and put it in my mouth: it was like an explosion of flavors that made all that tough work seem okay in the end. I know I’ll be thinking about this meal for a very, very long time after this trip has ended.

And oddly, I even incurred some injuries during the cracking and de-shelling of this crab: one cut finger tip, plus a tiny crab splinter in my thumb! Neither has ever happened to me before when eating any type of crustacean, but I suppose you can’t always have pleasure without a little pain…

We got there just in time to eat our meal before they started wrapping up, as they close at 3:30 every day. The place was packed, mostly with what seemed like local office workers in the area, as well as some small families. The service was extremely friendly, and they have a sink at the back for you to wash your hands (thankful for this, as it was much, much needed after all that shelling!). The pictures we took of this place and the food we had here just do not do it justice. And I’m still in slight shock that we were able to have this incredible crab meal for less than $5 USD.

When we visited the Lulu Mall, one of the things I definitely wanted to do was check out the hypermarket that was on its ground level. I don’t think I’d ever been inside a hypermarket, but it’s exactly what it sounds like: a massive store that combines a supermarket and a department store. Here, you can not only get your weekly grocery haul, but also pick up kitchen supplies, trousers, a dress, diapers, pencils, a lamp — almost anything! Of course, hypermarkets would be a thing in the fast-paced world of India! 

It was a total zoo inside: endless people streaming in and out and in literally every single one of its very long aisles. While there, I picked out a new ladle (I LOVE the utensils in India; when we were here last, I bought a large stainless steel spoon and handled strainer in a kitchen supply shop in Chennai, both of which I still use every time I make chai on the stove), a mix for appam (remember that I said the mixes in India are GOOD and have zero preservatives?!), plus TWO mangoes. 

I could not believe my eyes when we got to the produce aisle: multiple rows of mangoes, all labeled, of course, by varietal. In India, a mango is not just a mango: you must share what variety it is. I kept feeling the mangoes to see which were ripe enough for us to eat in the next day since we’d be leaving soon for the next leg of our trip. And I finally settled on two: the gudadath and the nadasala. The gudadath is native to the state of Kerala, with a thick texture that is extremely juicy, perfumey, and huge in size and weight. Some gudadath mangoes can weigh as much as 600 grams and be larger than the size of my face! The second mango, the nadasala, was originally cultivated in Tamil Nadu. It is smaller than the gudadath, rounder like a kesar, and is sweet, perfumey, and floral. I read that it’s a popular juicing mango.

The hotel indulged me, once again, and had a kitchen staff member cut my mangoes and send them to our room. I stared at the flesh of both mangoes lovingly: they looked so different than the Mexican mangoes we normally eat, and even versus the neelam, himsagar, alphonso, and kesar mangoes we’d eaten in India! Both mangoes’ flesh were almost translucent, a deep yellow-orange color. The gudadath texture is akin to jelly if you can believe it. It was extremely juicy, sweet like honey with all these different complex notes. The nadasala was also extremely juicy, dripping sweet with a nice surprise of tartness at the end of each bite. The flesh, similar to the gudadath, was also on the softer side and a bit translucent. It’s no wonder the nadasala is a top choice for making mango juice! 

Mangoes in India — it’s really just another world here with this magical fruit. The varieties are endless, and the complexities of flavor and the meatiness of the flesh are just so unique. The only regret I have from this trip to Kerala is that we did not taste even more varieties of mangoes! Also, I’m pretty bummed that during this entire time, Pookster absolutely refused to eat ANY mango at all! She had eaten so many ataulfo mangoes over the last few months and has been on quite the mango strike for the last several weeks. This was just blasphemous to me!