During the height of the pandemic, I saw so many recipes that either were for Japanese milk bread or included Japanese milk bread that I decided to try to make it. Unfortunately, lines at the grocery stores were long, and almost all milk bread recipes require bread flour for increased protein and gluten formation. I had only all-purpose flour and didn’t really want to line up just to get bread flour, so I tried my hand at making this with just all-purpose flour. Well, it didn’t turn out great: the dough got over proofed, it looked lopsided, and finally, the texture, while good, was nothing like the feathery, airy-light poofiness that makes Japanese (or Hokkaido) milk bread so famous. I had made a bread loaf, but it certainly was not anything that resembled a real Japanese milk bread loaf. I felt sad and decided I’d revisit it later when I got my hands on bread flour.

Then fast forward about five years (long wait, but a lot happened since then, including IVF and Kaia Pookie!). Earlier this year, I was able to get King Arthur bread flour on sale at Whole Foods, which I originally used to make two batches of hot cross buns. I knew another recipe I wanted to try out again was Hokkaido milk bread. And this time, I was properly equipped: I had the bread flour, the instant yeast (versus the dry active yeast, which would require an annoying extra step of scalding the milk), plus milk powder (which I originally bought and used to make gulab jamun nut bread). On Sunday night, I made the dough with the tangzhong, which is an Asian (people argue whether it was Japanese or Taiwanese first) bread making technique where a small portion of the flour and liquid (usually milk and water) is cooked into a paste before being added to the main dough. This pre-gelantinizes the flour’s startches, which then allows them to absorb more water. This ultimately results in a softer, more tender dough and bread that stays fresh, light, and fluffy for a longer time compared to bread without the tangzhong method. I proofed it overnight in the fridge. Then in the morning, I rolled it out and into my bread pan. I wasn’t sure if it rose enough or why it didn’t seem to rise at all in the fridge, but the recipe did note that this dough would not double (like most yeast doughs) when rising. When I checked the dough in the pan after an hour, I did see that it filled out the pan, so that was good news that my yeast was doing its job. I brushed it with milk, then baked it for about 32 minutes, and out came this gorgeous, poofy, lightly golden brown milk bread loaf. It already looked and smelled so much better than the one I attempted five years ago.

I sliced a couple pieces off my milk bread loaf for lunch for Chris and me, and I had mine with guava jam. To be totally honest, I felt so self satisfied when cutting into the loaf and seeing the crumb, and even more so when I took my first bite. It was like the perfect milk bread: feathery, airy, light, a tiny bit sweet, and pillowy. And even better: it was 100 percent homemade with no artificial ingredients or preservatives. And when I think about it, it really wasn’t that tedious to make at all, especially when you factor in doing the first proof (rise) overnight in the fridge. Making bread always gives me a high level of satisfaction, and even more so when it’s a bread that has been a challenge in the past. I will definitely be making this again soon!