Today, we hired a driver to take us to Lake Atitlan, which given the condition of local roads and traffic, took about three hours to get to Panajachel from our hotel in Guatemala City. Locally referred to as “Pana,” Panajachel is the main hub to catch a boat, public or private, to head to various Maya villages along the lake. Our driver recommended that we take a boat to the Tz’utujil Maya village of San Juan La Laguna, famous for its weaving cooperatives specializing in naturally dyed textiles, art demonstrations and galleries, and abundance of cafes and restaurants. San Juan is on the southwest shores of Lake Atitlan and is known for its bright colors and endless murals everywhere. Lake Atitlan, meaning “between the waters” in the Nahualtl language, is one of the most important national and international tourist attractions in all of Guatemala. It’s also known as the deepest lake in all of Central America (it has a maximum depth of 340 meters (or 1,120 feet), with an average depth of 154 meters (505 feet). The lake basin is volcanic in origin, filling a large cauldron-like hollow that formed after a volcanic eruption about 79,500 years ago. This was likely our very first time seeing and being on a boat going across a volcanic lake!
San Juan La Laguna was really as colorful as our driver said it was. Of all the places we have previously visited, I was reminded most of Guatape, a small town we visited while on a day trip from Medellin, Colombia, in May 2019. Guatape is known as one of the most colorful cities in all of Colombia, if not South America. San Juan felt similar but with far more hand painted and extremely elaborate murals. Here in San Juan, we saw almost life-like paintings of local, tropical birds, various flora and fauna, and scenes of indigenous Maya culture, clothing, and dance. We saw detailed hand-painted depictions of Maya bees and honey, as well as of the entire coffee growing and production process. We did a Maya bee farm tour (I had no idea how small these little guys were — and although they do not sting, they do bite; I have a feeling I got a few bites while there!), had a mini cacao/chocolate tour complete with some tastings, and did some mini hiking around the town. During our uphill walks, we also got to see avocados and mangoes growing everywhere. When we were leaving the honey farm, we stumbled upon some horses, who were taking a break and snacking on some of these avocados!
As a side note, I’ve noticed that avocados are not prepared quite the same way here as they are in Mexico. When we’ve been presented with avocados here, they are usually sliced up to be added into stews and soups, or it is simply mashed with at most, a pinch or two of salt. The avocado fattiness and its pure taste are all that come through — true delicious simplicity. There is not much in the way of spices, onions, or lime juice added. I’ve been adding mashed avocado to my morning tostada at our hotel breakfast buffet (along with some mashed black beans, a little scrambled egg and shredded local cheese), and I’ve noticed that the avocados in Guatemala seem to be sweeter here than back home. This is not to say that I do not like the Mexican avocados, but more that the Guatemalan avocados have a sweeter note as the end taste in my mouth. The majority of the avocados we get in the U.S. are grown in Mexico.
When we arrived at the lake just before 11am, it was so calm and still – a perfect blue skied day with a few clouds floating about. It was quite a different story as we were leaving San Juan to get back on the boat to Panajachel just after 4pm — it was storming, with rain pouring down from the sky seemingly in buckets! It made for a literally bumpy, slightly tumultuous ride along the lake. Our boat guy had to cover the front of the boat with a big clear tarp to prevent the three of us from getting completely drenched. Kaia seemed to revel in the tumult, giggling and shrieking non-stop with every bump, jump, and push.
It would have been fun to spend more time in San Juan to more closely peruse the art, weaving, and intricate bead work, but alas, we only had the day. And then, a long drive back to Guatemala City awaited us.